Priming technique for fine detail plastic?

[dddd99]

Hi All,

I want to paint a plastic model that has fine detail. Someone once told me that you can prime with "Vallejo Clear Matte" to preserve fine detail and give something for the paint to grip. I am assuming this needs to be done with an airbrush.

Well, I do not have an airbrush. Can I use something like (link): Rust-Oleum 327862 American Accents Spray Paint, 12 Oz, Matte Clear?

Basically my goal is to prime and preserve detail. Any advice? Thanks.

[Cacique Caribe]

Unbelievable.  Ive been pondering the exact same question myself! 

Dan

[CookAndrewB]

Honestly, I've never used a primer that covered over detail. I think that is probably more of a function of how much primer gets used, and if it is allowed to go on so thick that it pools excessively in recesses. I primarily use a mix of gesso and vallejo brush on primer, and it gives me a very paintable surface (the gesso is primarily responsible for this) that covers well (again, the gesso) and doesn't require thick layers. If I find spots that are pooling or are too heavy I just re-brush the area lightly to spread the primer.

For spray primer (which I don't love, on the whole) I would go with Army Painter if you are really worried about it. Otherwise just cheap spray primer seems to work fine if it is applied in light coats.

[pixelgeek]

Rustoleum probably won't work. Head to your local hardware store and get some autobody primer. Check if they sell Duplicolor as it has a very good spray head and is a very fine primer

[fred]

What kind of plastic figures? Is the hard plastic used by GW or Perrys etc, or the bendy plastic used by Airfix etc.

The former is much more amenable to paint and primers, and almost anything you would use on metal figures is fine. The latter is another matter....

[dddd99]

Thanks for the responses, guys.

@Fred it is the hard plastic from Zvezda, 1/350 scale model.
@pixelgeek ok I will look into the autobody primer. Never thought of that.

I guess in any case, I can do a test.

And, CookAndrewB, I think you're right the key will be to do a very light coat, just enough to give the paint something to hold onto.

[Fitz]

Just a caveat with aerosol auto primers: beware of the ones described as "sandable filler primer" as they contain extra inert particles designed to fill small holes and scratches, and will obliterate fine detail.

Warming the can in a hot water bath (no hotter than your hand can stand) will increase the spraying pressure and atomize the paint better, giving you a smoother spray.

[YPU]

Just a caveat with aerosol auto primers: beware of the ones described as "sandable filler primer" as they contain extra inert particles designed to fill small holes and scratches, and will obliterate fine detail.

Warming the can in a hot water bath (no hotter than your hand can stand) will increase the spraying pressure and atomize the paint better, giving you a smoother spray.

They are great for larger scenery pieces if you want to actually fix some minor flaws though!

[dddd99]

Thanks Fitz & YPU.

Fitz, good points. I have never tried warming the primer, but introducing some thermal energy will only help as you point out.

So I ordered the clear matte rustoleum can. I also have other primer to use. And I am looking into the auto primer too (although so far I see lots of the sandable filler primer). I have decided to do a test on part of the sprue to try to get results I like. That way I can compare. I think a combination of light coat and spraying from a distance with a warmed can will be my method.

[Citizen Sade]

If you’re not bothered about doing it on the cheap, I’m very happy with the results I get from spray cans of Tamiya fine surface primer. It’s made for both metal and plastic and I use it on all my figures. I generally use the light gray version, but they do it in white too.