Oathmark - Who's Playing?

[Historiker]

I just received my set of the core rules, and I was browsing around and I have some questions. What does armour do. It seems that units with heavy armour have a higher D than those with light armour. But Elf rangers, have no armour and the same amount of D as elf archers, who have light armour. Can somebody help me out with this problem?

I have only hastily browsed through the complete rules, but as far as I understand it "heavy armor" is just a description of how the unit type looks (what makes the unit easily identifiable on the battlefield) and the armor value is an abstracted value in regards to the defensive abilities of the unit type (see page 13).

It could also further serve as a "tag" for future rules ("troops in heavy armor can or cannot do this or that / are effected by this or that").

[BZ]

1) What would you say is the 'defining' unit for each of the available races?

2) As I'm leaning toward thin bases now, any idea how to put magnets on them so a case like this could be made?

1) What do you mean by defining? Must have units? Then I would say:
- dwarf heavy infantry (warriors or linebreakers) because they incredible tough to beat
- elf archers because they are by far the best archers of the game (S3, Aimed fire and 22 inch range)
- human heavy cavalry, because of their armor and Charge(3) (and they are a lot cheaper then elven cavalry)
- goblin wolf riders, because they are cheap, quick, reasonable tough, and can hit relatively hard

2) You can find pretty thin neodym magnets on Amazon, for example I bought D5x1mm ones, but I would buy the same thickness as the bases have. Then drill a hole in the middle of the base, glue the mini on it (the sole of it should cover the hole from the top) and then glue the magnet inside with superglue. The magnet should be flash with the bottom surface to avoid an air-gap, which weakens the magnetic force.
Honestly, I didn't used this method, because I choose chamfered bases (GW), but it should work too.
Just be cautious about the polarity! All of them should be the same, if not, they will stick together.
Im planning to write a longer post on my blog about bases and storage/transport solutions.

[BZ]

I just received my set of the core rules, and I was browsing around and I have some questions. What does armour do. It seems that units with heavy armour have a higher D than those with light armour. But Elf rangers, have no armour and the same amount of D as elf archers, who have light armour. Can somebody help me out with this problem?

No, light armored elf archers have D9, and rangers without armor D8. General armor values:
no armor: D8
light armor: D9
Heavy armor: D10
dwarfs have +1 everywhere and a mount means generally +3

[BZ]

Pick up games seem even easier than I initially thought with Oathmarks all races play together feature. For example:

I pick 10 models of dwarf linebreakers, so the opponent gets 10models if linebreakers. Then the opponent picks 10 goblin cavalry, so I get 10 goblin cavalry. Go back and forth like that til you exhaust the model supply or armies are the desired size.

Wouldn’t that work?

It would work, but you have to take care of the point values too, which would make this a bit difficult. Or you simply want to halve all the units? Wouldn't be that boring after some battles?

[Mr. White]

Yeah, probably, but you can demo/teach the game easily by simply splitting your collection.

I much prefer distinct armies myself, this was just an idea.

[Mr. White]

1) What do you mean by defining? Must have units? Then I would say:
- dwarf heavy infantry (warriors or linebreakers) because they incredible tough to beat
- elf archers because they are by far the best archers of the game (S3, Aimed fire and 22 inch range)
- human heavy cavalry, because of their armor and Charge(3) (and they are a lot cheaper then elven cavalry)
- goblin wolf riders, because they are cheap, quick, reasonable tough, and can hit relatively hard

2) You can find pretty thin neodym magnets on Amazon, for example I bought D5x1mm ones, but I would buy the same thickness as the bases have. Then drill a hole in the middle of the base, glue the mini on it (the sole of it should cover the hole from the top) and then glue the magnet inside with superglue. The magnet should be flash with the bottom surface to avoid an air-gap, which weakens the magnetic force.
Honestly, I didn't used this method, because I choose chamfered bases (GW), but it should work too.
Just be cautious about the polarity! All of them should be the same, if not, they will stick together.
Im planning to write a longer post on my blog about bases and storage/transport solutions.

Cheers for this response. Looking forward to that post!

[BZ]

Yeah, probably, but you can demo/teach the game easily by simply splitting your collection.

I much prefer distinct armies myself, this was just an idea.

For a demo/teach game, I would prefer to pre-make army lists.

[mruk]

2) As I'm leaning toward thin bases now, any idea how to put magnets on them so a case like this could be made?

I'm using 25mm wide magnetic tape on my bases. I ordered some 125x50mm metal plates to use as movement trays for my figures. And I can easily store my miniatures in metal boxes.

[Hobgoblin]

Pick up games seem even easier than I initially thought with Oathmarks all races play together feature. For example:

I pick 10 models of dwarf linebreakers, so the opponent gets 10models if linebreakers. Then the opponent picks 10 goblin cavalry, so I get 10 goblin cavalry. Go back and forth like that til you exhaust the model supply or armies are the desired size.

Wouldn’t that work?

It would work fine. For more variety, you could just put a points 'price tag' on the units and alternate choosing them until you've both reached the required points value. So you might pick 10 dwarf linebreakers and your opponent might pick 20 goblin soldiers, and so on.

I wouldn't worry about being too precise with the points values either. So 10 dwarf linebreakers might balance 10 orc linebreakers, even though there's a small difference in the points cost.

Or you could just ignore points altogether and alternate choosing units without reference to points. As long as there aren't dragons and 20-strong units of elf warriors, you can probably balance things well enough that way.

[Thoronde]

No, light armored elf archers have D9, and rangers without armor D8. General armor values:
no armor: D8
light armor: D9
Heavy armor: D10
dwarfs have +1 everywhere and a mount means generally +3

Yes you are completely right, I geuss I misread it. Sorry for the Hassle.

[Andrew_McGuire]

Lets hope, that the Oathbreakers will be full of new art!

Seconded, but I have to say the name 'Oathbreakers' is not the best portent...

[Ultravanillasmurf]

Yeah, probably, but you can demo/teach the game easily by simply splitting your collection.

I much prefer distinct armies myself, this was just an idea.

I am building up my armies as block units, for example:

Oathmark Human Army
Type         Ranks
Soldier      3
Spearman 2
Archer      4

Fireforge Northmen
Type       Ranks
Spear     3
Archer    2
Cavalry  1

Others here: https://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.com/2020/08/oathmark-forces.html

The joy of Oathmark is that you can build up small forces, useful for pick up games or introductory games, and then combine them into bigger armies

[Ultravanillasmurf]

On the models front, has anyone noticed how good the Victrix vikings are for Oathmark? You get 60 for £38 (or a sprue of 8 for £5 from eBay sellers). In Oathmark terms, they can be built as linebreakers, spearmen, warriors, soldiers or militia.

The Fireforge Medievals are also good value.

Archers, Soldiers and Spearmen.
The two boxes have common bodies, which means you can make more common kit for your forces.
https://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.com/2020/08/deus-vult-foot-sergeants-and-medieval.html

Two kinds of Knights (Warriors and possibly Linebreakers using Frostgrave Two handed Weapons).
https://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.com/2020/08/deus-vult-templar-and-teutonic-infantry.html


Fireforge Foot Sergeant, Fireforge Northman, Fireforge Medieval Archer and Oathmark Human Infantry.

The continuing story: https://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.com/search/label/Fireforge

[Mr. White]

 

I'm using 25mm wide magnetic tape on my bases. I ordered some 125x50mm metal plates to use as movement trays for my figures. And I can easily store my miniatures in metal boxes.

Another good option. Cheers!  I’ll have to figure out which approach to take.

As I’ll be building up my first proper fantasy table from scratch, I’m gonna be looking at fitting terrain. I admire the Midgard range from tabletop world. They not only look really cool, with a lived in look, but they open up which works for RoSD. They are pricey though.
https://tabletop-world.com/product-category/midgard-28mm-scale/

A runner up option is the stone huts from Fogou Models. These would be a lot cheaper, much easier to paint, and would give the table a more dark ages setting.
https://www.fogoumodels.co.uk/dark-age

Anyone have experience with either?

[Historiker]

I have also admired the Tabletop World stuff from afar. Fantastic looking but so expensive! definitely a rare treat for me, if even!

I think Oathmark will need more "classical" WHFB terrain like hills, swamps, rivers and woods.