Base Thickness size...

[Grimmnar]

Bases.... Thicc or Thin?

No knife fights on shape, that isn't on the table here. This is entirely about thickness of the base, which do you like.
For skirmish I like round bases. I goto local cons and see the MDF base sellers and when I look at the bases, especially the smaller diameter ones and think they are to thick, like by double.
So just curious on opinions of preference. Say you were getting some bases cut to order for you, what thickness do you want your MDF to be?
For arguments sake say the diameter of the bases cut will be in diameter 25/30/32/40/50/60/80mm. The last two for the games with big bois.
So how thick, 1mm, 2mm or even 3mm. 3mm being about the thickness of your standard GWish slotta round base or equivalent.
So what say you base fanatics?

Grimm

[Michi]

I prefer copper plated coins. They are thin, cheap, heavy and attachable to magnets. Thus 1mm for me…

[tikitang]

I like a really thick base: 3mm minimum.

I used to like them vertically edged, but have come to appreciate the aesthetics of the slope in recent days, and now prefer that to the former.

[fred]

For MDF - mainly for multi-based figures 2mm thickness

For single 28mm figures I like coins, gives good weight at the bottom of the figure for stability and nice and thin.

I really loathe the plinth style slotta bases. When they first came out they were a cleaver design but 30 years later, with plastic figures they seem a really odd choice both from looks and the instability they cause the figures.

[Dice Roller]

My preference is for thin.
Ideally 1mm but happy to settle at 2mm.

Like Fred, I can't abide plinth-like slotta bases.
Dreadful things.
With the size of the average 25mm figure being more like 30mm then adding a slotta base really makes them tall.
Nope, not for me.

[zemjw]

A lot of it depends on the scale. For 28mm, slottabase height for me, but with sloped edges. For some reason they seem less tall than vertical edges...

For 6mm, 1mm base height. It always seems weird when 6mm figures are on 3mm bases

[carlos marighela]

Steel washers. 2-3mm in thickness.

[gweirda]

Minimum required (thickness and diameter) to serve the purpose of keeping the figure upright.  Ideally, it (the base) won't be seen at all.

[armchairgeneral]

I like to use 1mm thick steel bases with rounded corners from PWS (not cheap though)

https://pwsltd.square.site/steel-bases

or 1.5mm thick plywood bases from Warbases for multi-basing.

Steel washers for individual figure basing

[Hobgoblin]

I quite like round slottabases for skirmish games; they're easy to pick up without touching the figure itself, and the 'plinth' effect looks quite good when considering the miniature on its own. They can also be filled with Miliput or whatever for added stability.

Also, it's easier to put non-slotta figures on slottabases than to fiddle around with cutting off tabs to put slotta figures on other bases. Another consideration is that there are lots of good movement trays for using slotta figures in massed battles, where the height of the base doesn't really matter.

I put my 25mm RPG figures on coin bases; again, movement trays allow these to be used in mass battles, and the magnetic effect helps with storage and transport. I also use coins for individually based 15mm and 1/72 figures.

For figures that are mainly destined for mass battles but are to be individually based (perhaps because they might have auxiliary roles in skirmishes or RPGs or are too old and nice to commit to multibases), I like 2mm MDF. The vertical edges are important here; the bases fit together seamlessly, unlike square slottas with sloping edges, so that the figures can form a block.

For that reason, the bases I dislike most are square slottabases with sloping edges and Oathmark-style square bases. I do have an Nick Lund orc force based on the latter, largely because the large metal bases on Nick Lund and Copplestone Grenadier figures lifts them to the same height as slottabases, so thin bases seemed appropriate. But I find them quite annoying in practice; they don't fit together in the way that MDF ones do.

For RPGs, I don't think basing really matters. Having painted figures for a combat encounter is quite sufficient - and it can sometimes help if groups are based differently to each other (you can see who's who more easily). On my desk at the moment, I have an old Grenadier wight and an equally ancient Grenadier Ettin. The former is based on a Citadel slotta and the latter on a 2p piece. But their feet are exactly the same height, so they'd look just fine if used in a game together (though the wight will be rebased on a coin at some stage).

I'd also add that bases tend to 'vanish' for me during games - whether or not they match the gaming mat or have black edges (mine do). And the same goes for a 1mm or so height difference. Counter-intuitively, perhaps, I don't see the appeal of transparent bases: for me, those undermine the miniatures as little objets d'art and look a bit too conspicuous somehow.

[infelix]

I prefer 3mm mdf bases for most my gaming figures. I just think it looks better most of the time.

[Charlie_]

I like them as thin as possible!
For that reason I exclusively use Renedra plastic bases, which are I think 1.5mm tall.
I love the look of that very thin edge, which I paint black.

This is for multi-based army with all sorts of different base sizes for different sorts of units. It does mean I limit myself to the sizes renedra make (they do quite a lot) - I could get any base size I want from Warbases in MDF, but they'll be just that little bit too thick. When I rebased all my cavalry a few years back I had quite the dilemma - was I being daft restricting myself to the sizes Renedra make? In the end I put them on some obscure 90x65mm 'artillery bases' they happen to make, and it was the right choice. If they didn't happen to have that particular size though I might have been forced to go for MDF to get the exact size I wanted.

Most of my units do also have MDF unit trays as well (not always used, but the option is there if required) which adds an additional 2mm in height - the edges of the unit trays are I think 3mm.

[ithoriel]

Yes to all of those depending on what I'm basing.

[Hammers]

I use 1- 1,5mm 25mm steel washers as I don't like the aesthetics of miniatures looking like they are standing on plinths. I want my miniatures to stand as flat and close to the gameboard as possible.

Miniatures with integral bases I grind down to the base to very thin and epoxy to a 1x25mm washer.

For miniatures scultpted for slottabases I tool slits down the middle of 1,5x25 steel washers and fit them.

For storage i put self adhesive magnetic sheets into plastic bins.

[Rabbitz]

For me it normally depends on the scale of the figures but normally 3mm  straight sided ply or similar.    I just find 3mm is a good size to pick up the models by.   
If it’s stuff that’s going into movement trays I go with 2mm and a 1mm tray. 

Not a huge fan of big plastic slot bases, and also hate to see bent and warped thin bases.