Games Workshop 'Purity Seal' problems

[rob_the_robgoblin]

Hey Guys

I just painted up a really nice model which I intend on posting up later and for the first time in a long time, I chose to varnish it!
However, when I began spraying my unused can (it's probably about 2 years old, never used), it began spluttering varnish out from UNDER the nossle cap (the bit you press on, I don't know the technical name). I managed to spray some out onto the model, but I hope it doesn't fog. I recall it being very good stuff.

I hope it's okay, what do you guys suggest?

Rob

[joroas]

Some of mine have fogged using this, i'm not sure if spraying in the cold does it. I suggest that you spray something you don't need: paint a piece of sprue and see what happens.

[Svennn]

I always consider the cap poblem on sprays to be manufacturing faults. I would usually swap the nozzle with one from another can which usually works.

Certainly not the weather to be spray varnishing here at present though. Not only cold but also very damp - not the varnishers friends those two.

[joroas]

Aaaah, so it may be the damp........

[rob_the_robgoblin]

Seemed to come out fine...

It's dry as anything here and not particularly cold, still a bit nippy.

I just painted on a layer of Matt varnish, so should be okay. WOuld you guys suggest leaving Varnished models in the airing cupboard after I paint the varnish on?

GW are usually very good at swapping their sprays if something bad happens using it. They will test it in store and if what you says happens, they'll swap.  

[Commander Vyper]

Seemed to come out fine...

It's dry as anything here and not particularly cold, still a bit nippy.

I just painted on a layer of Matt varnish, so should be okay. WOuld you guys suggest leaving Varnished models in the airing cupboard after I paint the varnish on?

GW are usually very good at swapping their sprays if something bad happens using it. They will test it in store and if what you says happens, they'll swap.  

I personally don't spray seal at this time of year, too wet, cold and damp and too prone to fogging and white matting.

Take it steady though, as no point spending all that time and effort painting only to spoil it with a bad seal coat.

[rob_the_robgoblin]

The Gloss seemed fine, I am painting on the Matt though.

[Trooper]

Purity seal is generally a good matt varnish, but as other contributors have suggested is very prone to temperature changes, it does not like cold weather. I always store mine in the airing cupboard, which keeps it at a nice temperature for use. Occasionally though GW do turn out a bad batch or so it seems. I have found it best to do an experimental spray and keep some old painted figures around for that purpose. If you do get fogging or the dreaded white mist, I have also found that a repsray with good purity seal cures that. Alternatively you could switch varnishes, the Army Painters "Anti shine Matt Varnish" is excellent, and I have had no problems with that, touch wood!!! One more tip, with all GW sprays, they benefit from being stored upside down, dunno why it works but it does, and prevents clogging.

[Johan]

I've had misting problems with both of them, each time though with cans that were stored in envirements where the temperature wasn't stable. I think that that causes the agents in the can (varnish and drying agent) to seperate and you're spraying only the drying agent. A firm shake (up and down) seemed to be the cure for this. My models however needed some paint repair as I was unable to remove the white powder completely.

[Orctrader]

I never use any spray varnish, nor primer actually.  Brush-on for me every time.

[joroas]

I never use any spray varnish, nor primer actually.  Brush-on for me every time.

Isn't that smelly in the house?

[Orctrader]

Isn't that smelly in the house?

Not the ones I use.  LINK  Both "low-odour."

Some are though.  Testors, for example.  So even if it hadn't melted my paint I wouldn't have used it for long.

[Lowtardog]

Could be a number of reasons I suppose, cold varnish, clogged spray nozzle, cold figure, cold ambient air temperature etc.

I would also give the can a bloody good shake as 2 years old is quite a time fo rthe can to sit and settle out etc.

as said if in doubt spray something you dont mind it ruingin just in case.

Brush ons can be just as pedantic and tricky, infact I stopped using them after they buggered up a section of Waffen SS I have lovingly painted pea pattern camo on

[Orctrader]

Brush ons can be just as pedantic and tricky, infact I stopped using them after they buggered up a section of Waffen SS I have lovingly painted pea pattern camo on

Always use on a "test" figure and allow to dry.  Though once I have a bottle I have had perfect results from, I just varnish the base rims first.  By the time I've done the sixth or seventh figure the rim is dry on the first one.  If that's dried with a "perfect" finish I know I'm good to go. 

Of course, couple of big advantages using brush-on are:

1.That it's at room temperature, and so are the figures.  (Well, mine are as I place them near each other a few hours before I intend to varnish them.)
2. Being in a bottle you can see the mixture.  I stir and shake very, very well.  Anything in a spray can you can shake for ever and not know what's happening inside.

I spend far too much time on painting a figure to rush the varnishing stage.  To quote my own words:  Indeed, I don’t actually regard varnishing as something done “after painting” but as an integral part of the painting process.

When I used to use testors spray varnish, I would apply to a "test" figure and wait 15 minutes or so before proceeding with the ones I had just painted. 

Tricky stuff, varnish.  So I'm always very careful.

[rob_the_robgoblin]

cheers guys.

I think I'll go fetch it out of the garage then!