Dirty Mordheim

[Luckyjoe]

Just finished weathering and dirtying up our little Mordheim table. Pics on my blog if you're interested.

http://joesfamilyhammer.blogspot.com/2011/08/dirty-mordheim.html

[dodge]

I do like that,

Mordheim style gaming seems very very popular

dodge

[dr willetts workshop]

Good looking table, lots of "playable" parts, it's going to be lots of fun to play with!

[Paul]

  great !!!!

[Mason]

Lovely looking set-up you have there, Luckyjoe!
Loads of levels. That is what every good game of Mordheim needs.
Our early games pale in comparison to nowadays, now that we have more levels and walkways.
I know I need to add more to mine and I am so glad that I looked at your blog because it reminds me that I desperately need to add a few 'riser' blocks for instant height.
Impressive work, mate, keep it up!

A small tip for weathering; I always paint my buildings in a darker brown undercoat and drybrush up from that. That way it is easier to leave the darker colour in the crevises and save time later when it comes to 'Dirty'-ing
up your buildings.

[DeafNala]

A FINE LOOKING gaming board that just keeps getting better. WELL DONE!

[Luckyjoe]

Thanks, everyone for the kind remarks. And thanks, Mason, for the tip about the dark undercoating.

[Argonor]

Mordheim style gaming seems very very popular

Skirmish-style games are very much the 'bread-and-butter' on this forum, garnered with the occational big battle 

I think it is quite normal for gamers who don't spend all their time on playing Warhammer or W40K (or Napoleonics, for all that matters), that we tend to focus on small-scale action, so we can actually get a new project finished within an overseeable amount of time.

And that is a very nice bunch of scratch-built ruins! And as mason said - always work from dark basecoats if you want dark recesses on a model - also true for single minis, really. Washes are nice and quick, but never give you the same control over the colours as just building up the layers.

I also saw the post about GameCraft, and they seem a really good source for cheap, nice buildings, if you don't have the time and/or guts to build all your terrain yourself.

[Luckyjoe]

Hi, Argonor. Thanks for the comments and advice. About working up from the dark basecoat, I normally do that and did that with the Hirst Arts lower portions on some of the buildings. On the foamcore portions, I had either coated them with spackle (polyfilla) or applied watered-down PVA glue with some sand. For both types I was then starting with a white base. I thought a wash over the white would work, but it could have come out better. Would you have just applied a dark basecoat over the spackle or sand, and then highlighted up? I was a little afraid I'd lose too much texture if I went that way.

One of the best things about the GameCraft product is the excellent resin widows and doors. I could never make anything that good from scratch.

[Argonor]

Would you have just applied a dark basecoat over the spackle or sand, and then highlighted up? I was a little afraid I'd lose too much texture if I went that way.

Yes, just use thinned acrylic craft paints for basecoats, the structure will be preserved - some of the 'points' might even not be covered, but as you apply more paint on top, it will sort itself out. I use fairly fine sand on my 'city' bases (modern zombies, gangsters, SWAT, and the likes), and start by painting them black with thinned black paint, then grey, and drybrushed with lighter grey(s). Nice structure, even with 2 layers of paint before drybrushing. An example of that will be on ny blog in (hopefully, you never know what plans real life has for your evenings  ) a few days, as I have a zed on the painting station just now.

Actually goes for most acrylic paints that they are better thinned a bit for working with models.

[Johnno]

Beautiful terrain