Metal minis, white glue, and wooden bases

[gloriousbattle]

Probably a neurotic question, but has anyone ever had lead rot or similar develop from using the above combination?

Note that I probably should have asked this question BEFORE I finished them. 

[zizi666]

Probably a neurotic question, but has anyone ever had lead rot or similar develop from using the above combination?

Nope, and I find it weird that a waterbased glue would do that, but why would you use white glue to glue metal to wood ?
to combine two mediums that are so different I'd say : use superglue .

danny

[joroas]

I use a hot glue gun.

[Hammers]

Certain types of wood can act as a catalyst for lead rot. Oak, for example. One should stay keep highly acidic materials away from high lead content alloys but wg is not so bad, is it?

[G2]

Certain types of wood can act as a catalyst for lead rot.

WOW! I didn't know that. Thanks for sharing that piece of information.

So I shouldn't keep my old unpainted minis, in a wooden box?

[Hammers]

WOW! I didn't know that. Thanks for sharing that piece of information.

So I shouldn't keep my old unpainted minis, in a wooden box?

It is not as simple as that. I think pine  and several others are good and most newer minis do not contain hardly any lead these days. But if you have an old stash of minis which you hold dear you should take some care. Lead rot is a not a marginal problem with those as many LAF members have withessed about. Now where is that authoritative thread we had some years back...?

[gloriousbattle]

I used white glue because I'm not sure this will be a permament mount.  Also, would balsa wood be one of those that is more or less likely to attract lead rot?

Again, thanks.

[zizi666]

I used white glue because I'm not sure this will be a permament mount.  Also, would balsa wood be one of those that is more or less likely to attract lead rot?

Again, thanks.

Even so, I'd go with superglue, just a drop to hold the fig in place. afterwards you can still remove it with a cutter under the feet. worst thing that could happen is that some wood keeps sticking to the bottom of the feet, which should easily be sanded down.
All this assuming you're talking about a standard 28mm fig and nothing with extremely fine hence delicate legs. 

[Hammers]

Also, would balsa wood be one of those that is more or less likely to attract lead rot?

I don't know, you have to google it. Tannic acid is the problem, see, and both oak and walnut contains it.

[gloriousbattle]

Even so, I'd go with superglue, just a drop to hold the fig in place. afterwards you can still remove it with a cutter under the feet. worst thing that could happen is that some wood keeps sticking to the bottom of the feet, which should easily be sanded down.
All this assuming you're talking about a standard 28mm fig and nothing with extremely fine hence delicate legs. 

Actually, that is what happened.  I tried a speed painting technique, and glued the figs to a long balsa wood strip with white glue.  They painted up quick, but then a thin sliver of the balsa woodstuck to the bases os several.

It was thin, so I did not sand it down, but epoxied them to bases.

Then I started to wonder if that would create problems.

But I think I can make lemonade from lemons here.  The set was only about 80 15mm figures, and they took only a couple of evenings to paint.  Some I did not paint by this method, so they have no wood sticking to their feet.

So, I will keep them as they are, and see if I ever have problems.  If so, I'll pop them off their bases and see if there is a difference between the ones with wood slivers and whitwe glue, and the ones with none.

It will make an interesting long term experiment, and, if anything such happens, I'll report back to the membership here.

[zizi666]

Pretty much the same technique I use for my 15mms, although I glue them to strips of leftover foamboard.
When prying 'em off I nearly always tear some paper loose that's larger than the base so I have to scrape/sand that away.

[gilibran]

... Now where is that authoritative thread we had some years back...?

I suppose you mean one of those, Hammers..

http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=7432.0

http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=1837.0

[zemjw]

I use Copydex when gluing figures to painting bases.

It's latex based, so pulls away from metal, plastic etc. in a single piece when you need to remove it - no sanding required.

I've used it to glue 54mm metal figures to the top of plastic vitamin bottles, and it held the weight without any problems.

It smells a bit, and the bottle does go solid after a year or so, but it's worth a try if you can find some (no idea what it's called outside the UK)

Note - this is only for attaching figures to painting bases, I wouldn't use it for permanently attaching a model to a base.

[zizi666]

I use Copydex when gluing figures to painting bases.

It's latex based, so pulls away from metal, plastic etc. in a single piece when you need to remove it - no sanding required.

I've used it to glue 54mm metal figures to the top of plastic vitamin bottles, and it held the weight without any problems.

It smells a bit, and the bottle does go solid after a year or so, but it's worth a try if you can find some (no idea what it's called outside the UK)

Note - this is only for attaching figures to painting bases, I wouldn't use it for permanently attaching a model to a base.

I've got a tube of rubber cement, used it for 15mms, but it doesn't hold 'em too well, so a 28 mm wouldn't hold at all.

[zizi666]

Had a quick look at what the local artist's supply store has to offer and found this.
It's latex based, so it's probably in the line of what you're suggesting.