Basing your collection

[answer_is_42]

My colonial collection is currently based on the round 25mm GW slottabases, which I hate. I'm considering rebasing the whole lot (something like 400 figures all told), particularly onto smaller bases to they will rank up better.

I was wondering how, and on what, other members base theirs?  Square or circle, individually or as a group? Obviously the peculiar nature of colonial warfare (both ‘regular’ and ‘irregular’) must be taken into consideration.

I was considering pennies myself, but this does leave the question of the artillery and cavalry, which would still be based on the high GW bases (washers, perhaps?).

Or am I just overthinking this? 

[Plynkes]

Most infantry on pennies, those whose cast bases won't fit on pennies on two pence pieces (and those who would be unstable on pennies get 2ps too - some of my Ngoni, due to the way they hold their shields out away from the body tend to topple over if not on a bigger base). Cavalry on big washers, MGs, small artillery and such on even bigger washers. I don't have any "big" artillery really (nothing above a mountain gun), so that has never come up. I guess I'd have to find an even bigger bigger washer, or just cut a disc from a bit of sheet steel like I did when I was out of washers.

Individual basing is perhaps a bit silly for colonial games, but I tend to only skirmish anyway and prefer the look. I can always go the movement tray route if necessary, but so far have been too lazy to.




Stokes gun on "Artillery washer."



Giraffes on "cavalry washers" (and Karen Blixen on 1p).


Somali scouts on "cavalry washers."


Ngoni on 2p pieces, with leader on 1p piece.

[Damas]

I go with two pence coins for all 28mm individuals myself and use a circle cutter on plasticard the same thickness as the coins for larger bases so the uniformity is kept.

Aside, Plynkes, those Giraffe are AWESOME!

[oldbear1962]

Plynkes, out of interest why the tribesmen on 2p's and the leader on a 1p?

[Mason]

It seems we have the same thought, 42.
Most of my previous models are on plastic slottas, but I really do not like them anymore.
Those really large beveled edge things, warmachine-types, are even worse, I reckon.
I think that they seriously distract the eye away from the miniature, at least in 28mm.
I have used those beveled wotsits on my Hellboy 40mm, and I do think that they work ok on bigger minis though.

Having seen all the lovely work on here, I have come to the conclusion that I will no longer use any bases that have a such a dominant edge, as it distracts from the miniature.

I am keeping the earlier stuff on their original plastic bases.
This is mostly for Mordheim, and as the rest of my group use them, this should be ok aesthetically.

My latest project, and anything else that follows will be on the two-pence piece method, as mentioned by Plynkes.
It looks so much better on the tabletop, the bases do tend to blend in better.
I follow a similar method to Plynkes, but instead of washers, I am using MDF circles of a similar thickness to the 2p's ordered via ebay, for the larger creatures.
I may go down the washer route myself, as they add a certain amount of heft and stability to a miniature on the tabletop.

It does look so much better, I reckon.

As for rebasing the whole 400 figures, it is a tall order but would be worth it in the end, if you feel that it is worth spending the time.

[joroas]

You could rebase those 400 figures for about £4...... 

[Plynkes]

Plynkes, out of interest why the tribesmen on 2p's and the leader on a 1p?

My standard base is a 1p. I only go to 2ps if the figure needs it for stability purposes or because his feet are sculpted so wide apart they won't fit on a 1p. 1ps fit in my canoes while 2ps don't, and I want as many of them as possible to be able to use canoes. So they default to 1ps if there is no reason not to. The two on the right of the leader are "tippers" (poses that have a tendency to fall over on a 1p). Not sure about the other two, I may have just been playing it safe. The way the leader is holding his shield out may look like it would make him be a tipper, but actually he's perfectly stable, it's the ones running forwards and holding their shield in front that tend to go over.

[Hobbit]

Where is the British officer in the turban from? - don't recognise him but want one!

[Stecal]

when you are getting over 50 figures on a side then you really need to consider multibasing.  You are no longer playing a skirmish game.

[Plynkes]

Where is the British officer in the turban from? - don't recognise him but want one!

Brigade Games ANZAC Characters pack...




But with a new head that came from some Indian Army figure or other, I forget its exact origin...



Inspired by these pictures of Berkeley Cole and Denys Finch Hatton of Cole's Scouts/The Somali Scouts...

[oldbear1962]

My standard base is a 1p. I only go to 2ps if the figure needs it for stability purposes or because his feet are sculpted so wide apart they won't fit on a 1p. 1ps fit in my canoes while 2ps don't, and I want as many of them as possible to be able to use canoes. So they default to 1ps if there is no reason not to. The two on the right of the leader are "tippers" (poses that have a tendency to fall over on a 1p). Not sure about the other two, I may have just been playing it safe. The way the leader is holding his shield out may look like it would make him be a tipper, but actually he's perfectly stable, it's the ones running forwards and holding their shield in front that tend to go over.

Right. Makes sense.

[Remington]

Man, it is a joy to see Plynkes' minis again...

Had to throw that in!

[mysteriousbill]

I use plain wooden circles that I pick up at a craft store. They come in various sizes for various sized people and creatures. For cavalry I use Litko wooden bases.

I also don't go with fancy bases, just plain paint. I base my figures this way for three reasons

1. It's fast, giving me more time to paint the figures and make terrain.

2. The base fits with about any terrain. I have seen people who carefully base their figures with urban rubble, and wonder how they look when used fighting in the desert (and vice versa)

3. But mainly so I can keep the units straight in hand to hand. Many times I've had two units begin a fight and others join in. Without numbers or letters on the bases it is hard to keep track of which unit lost what for checking morale.

I know some people use special bits of terrain  or painted differences on the figures to tell their units apart, but I've seen that system fail in the heat of combat. It's hard to miss a big number if it has been written in a color that stands out.

That's just my 2 cents.

[Conquistador]

Litko 20 mm circles in 3 mm depth.  Then Litko "rank" or "skirmish" trays (1-4 lines deep on the trays) for units.

I also use Litko 3/4" square bases (think 19 mm) for Fantasy figures since my old figure were on them originally.    

Also Litko 20 mm squares (Historical) for selected armies with Litko movement trays as above.

Superheroes on 20/25/30 mm circles depending on role (Hero/sidekick/henchman) from Litko.

Those are my most common basing schemes.

Also have some Renaissance Ink bases but the selection, while excellent, is more limited in variety.

Gracias,

Glenn

[H.M.Stanley]

I base my dismounted figures on 1p pieces although for some reason that still escapes me put all the Explorers on 2ps

Cavalry i use mdf 25mm x 50mm

Character figures animals etc i use 25mm circular mdf

I buy movement trays from Warbases. Martin will do just about any configuration you want

James