What is that tool called that's designed for removing mold lines from plastics?

[Condottiere]

I once saw it somewhere, but can't recall the name of this useful tool, compared with files, for removing mold lines from hard and soft plastic figures. I know I could use an X-Acto blade, but don't always have a steady hand. Anyone know what it's called and is there a favored brand?  

[Major_Gilbear]

I think they are usually referred to as "scrapers".

This might be what you're looking for?

[Citizen Sade]

Yes, scrapers. Shesto make them too.

http://www.shesto.co.uk/p1268/3-Sided-Scraper/product_info.html

[Condottiere]

Thanks Major_Gilbear and Citizen Sade. With a hazy memory, I thought this tool had a curved end. What is the difference between the blade on this and that of a modelling knife?

[tomogui]

Thanks Major_Gilbear and Citizen Sade. With a hazy memory, I thought this tool had a curved end. What is the difference between the blade on this and that of a modelling knife?

I have the Micromark one. It takes off mould lines nicely. Not essential - you can do most things it does with either the front or back of an exacto blade - but I prefer it for scraping work.

It's a sturdy hardened steel blade, triangular in cross-section, but the blade is not sharp like a knife: you couldn't really cut yourself with it, for example, which is good if it slips (eg with metal models where you might be pressing a bit harder).

 

[Major_Gilbear]

Thickness of the cutting edge and stiffness mostly. The shallower edge and stiffer tool tip mean that the blade won't flex and "skip". It's the knife blade's flexibility that causes it to skip as you drag along a mouldline (i.e., it springs back), and that gives the area scraped a scratched/chipped look.

That said, using a shorter blade in your Xacto knife and doing several light passes over a mouldline is perfectly adequate; mostly it just takes longer, and blunts the blades fairly quickly. However, if you are just doing a single squad of troops or whatever, I'd wouldn't go out and but an expensive tool - I'd just use an appropriate blade for the tool I already have instead.

[Gary Mitchell]

I use a sharp knife and a steady hand. I'm not a surgeon, though.

[Mitch K]

I have some micro-sized chisels, burins and scrapers that I made from dissection needles, and these are very useful. My other go-to for this sort of thing is a Swann-Morton #15 or 15A blade, which is very short and hence stiffer and less likely to slip. An alternative is some of the Swanns or X-Acto chisel blades, which can be used vertically like a cabinet scraper - some even have convex cutting edges which really help.

I find this is more of a problem on plastics, where you always have to physically remove material. Often good metal castings can be done simply by burnishing.

[joroas]

Games workshop make something similar.

[Dr. Zombie]

Or ask your dentist.

I got a bunch of really usefull sculpting and scraping tools from my dentist.

I don't know how it works in other countries but my dentist just gave them to me. apparently once they have been used they have to get them professionally sterilised before they can use them on new patients. And that is as expensive as buying new ones. So my dentist was happy to give some used ones away.

[Major_Gilbear]

Actually, I've just remembered something that I used to use years ago for cleaning mouldlines (I worked more with plastic models then than I do now...): scissors.

Seriously, take a smallish pair of long-nosed narrow scissors, open them out and wrap masking tape around one of the blades. Then, holding them like an open razor with the taped blade in the palm of your hand, use the other blade as a scraper.

As long as the scissors are small-ish and sharp-ish, it works a charm and is very readily available! 

_______________________________________________________

Something like the yellow pair from this 3-pack (from Ikea - only £1!):

[Hammers]

There are many kinds of deburring tools. These are particular ones are common and purpose made:



The point is the the business is shaped and tempered to scrape brass, plastic and white metal softer than carbon steel. They are available from MicroMark, for example.

[white knight]

Do any of those things work on soft plastic figures?

[Mitch K]

Do any of those things work on soft plastic figures?

If you mean the polyethylene (old "Airfix" type), I'd say not. Scraping those always tended to generate a sort of "hairy" effect that was worse than the original seam in many cases! The only luck I ever had with stuff like that was using a really sharp blade and paring away the line.

[white knight]

I was thinking of more modern italeri 54mm figures.