I think this looks GREAT, so take my next comments as attempting to give constructive criticism. (Note I think this game looks so promising that I decided to finally register and post)
Sometimes you cite the need for cross-over sales potential for being less 'true' to your scenario. I believe this was about ripped clothing and a more weathered look. Yet other times when people suggest better looking woman's faces you cite that in this survival situation they'd all look haggard.
You may want to consider which is your primary goal. You may also want to consider that things like the fact that a standard condition clothing and good looking face can easily be painted to be worn and world-weary, but creating a model with torn clothing and a world-weary (ugly) face isn't something that can be reversed with paint.
Second, it looks like many of your survivors have bare faces. Are these people choosing to not scrounge for food but instead look for fresh razors, cream, and hot water to shave daily? I think your full bearded guys look great. You don't have to go for wild unkept beards, full beards will give the survivors a great look yet still allow them to be used as generic survivors by others.
...although, with all these 'hipsters' and their wild unkept beards, wild unkept beards may not be deal breakers as long as they are on just a few of the men.
A lot of your characters look 'wide' which is good. If you were scavaging your body would be very thin but you'd probably not find a nice perfectly fitting 'arctic explorer grade' winter jacket. You'd probably instead be wearing 3 or 4 sweatshirts as layers (and because these are very common) and a just average winter coat. This doesn't change the look enough to make these miniatures unappealing to other games and genre.
Now, on to weapons.
As I understand it you are coming from a UK and European angle.
Whatever you do, don't give any future models Mac-10s!
Your sticking to shotguns and rifles (and 1 pistol) makes sense. It also makes sense that you'd have double barrel shotguns. In addition to them being probably the most common shotgun in the UK, a double barreled shotgun would be one of the easiest guns to build from scratch (second only to single barreled shotgun, and zip guns of course)
(for some great zip gun images look here
http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2012/06/15/artsy-zip-guns/ )
HOWEVER I am glad to hear that you are including some pump shotguns in your next set of minis. I would also include the following:
-Revolvers: Specifically the Webly Mark IV and the Smith and Wesson Model 10. Stay away from making short barreled versions of them. Here is my logic behind this choice. For starters, from about 1899 to 1970 these were EXTREMELY common guns. Second, both guns were common in cold places...like Canada, Norway, etc. Heck the Smith and Wesson model 10 was still in use by the Norwegian police until 1990! These guns would look very 'in place' in many of the cold settings your models may be purchased for. Second, TONS of these guns are in the UK because of world war 1 and world war 2 production/usage. Half a million of the Smith and Wessons were given out in the 'lend-lease' program. Mac-10s get all the news mention in the UK (the vast majority of which aren't really Mac-10s) but it's old WW2 era revolvers that really are the common handguns. This fits the UK scrounger look wonderfully.
(
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1262314/Facebook-girl-jailed-posing-machine-gun-mobsters-moll.html)
-Bolt action hunting rifles WITHOUT SCOPES: Scopes can be quite fragile. Those that aren't cost more than your average rifle. Scopes tend to have problems fogging up in very cold conditions unless they are always left out in the cold. Rifles without scopes would be more common in scavanger type settings as well as in a non-scavanger timeframe where double barreled shotguns are so prevalent. Of course rifles without scopes would necessitate you adding a front sight on the brass tube barrel.
Enfield Rifle: Specifically the SMLE No. 1 Mk III and No. 4 Mk I. Both guns are very UK, very distinctive looking, and there are tons in back sheds and attics. Also, as with the revolvers mentioned above, these were common guns in Canada and other cold places.
Military assault rifle:As others had mentioned military bases will be scavenged and so you should expect to see at least the occasional M-16 or SA-80 in the hands of survivors. I'd suggest NOT example in your next batch of figures but instead if you ever do a third batch, do one with every model having a modern weapon (M-16, SA-80, AK-47, MP-5) and a small rules addition to deal with these.
I like the melee weapons. You have a pick-ax handle, so how about a pick? You have a hatchet/hand-axe. I'd like to see more of these, plus more full sized 'lumberjack' or 'fire' type axes. Hand axes like you already have are going to be one of the easiest weapons to make, as well as a very useful tool for a scavenger. Others have suggested it and I will second the notion of a spear being a great choice, especially if that spear is obviously a mob or broom handle with a large kitchen knife lashed onto the end.
I do hope that whoever you have paint these knows about how when you are out in the bitter cold your own breath causes your beard (and other facial hair) to develop ice.
Finally, regarding your rules, looking at the mechanics of 'stand up fight or a bug hunt'...
I really like the simplicity of your rules, and I really really like how for each gun at max range there is a VERY SMALL chance to hit but up close there is a VERY GOOD chance to hit.
I'd tweak your rules a little bit for guns. Not all guns are equally effective at taking out the person hit. I am guessing you have people rolling 2d10 for the SMG and pulse rifle to simulate taking multiple shots. However extra die is also a great way to represent more potent weapons.
For this new game I'd suggest:
Pistol - 1d at all ranges, 2-10, 9-10 (same as you have it)
Shotgun - 3d at first range, 2d at 2nd range, 1d at final range. (Shotguns are devastating at close range, more dice means higher chance of getting at least one hit, and possibly many hits due to many projectiles) 4-10, 6-10, 9-10
Sawn Off Shogtun - 3d at first range 1d at 2nd range. 3-10, 8-10. (spread at close range makes it very slightly more effective but becomes a huge hindrance at even medium range)
Hunting Rifle - 2d at all ranges. This represents the power of the rifle more than it does multiple shots. I'd suggest a range like the carbine or sniper rifle. Maybe incorporate a +1 to each roll for the scope for ranges 12" and beyond.
Note I am assuming the hunting rifle is something a deer hunter or the equivalent would use, NOT a 22 for shooting rabbits and squirrels.
For casualty and moral I'd say introduce the rule:
Pistols (and SMGs if added later) +1 to your dice roll
Hunting Rifles (and sniper rifles if added later) -1 to your dice roll
Shotguns (and assault rifles if added later) would be unmodified.
You could also do this with different melee weapons.
Everyone without an obvious melee weapon will be assumed to have a kitchen knife or something similar in a pocket, but be at +1
Most bludgeoning weapons would be unmodified
a few especially effective weapons like axe and machete would be -1 to your dice roll.
February 05, 2013, 03:53:14 AM