Markers and counters

[Dr DeAth]

Been making some markers for a forthcoming game.

The laser cut squares are designed to hold small dice which will give a value the marker a value of 1-6. By using different colour dice a greater range of scores can be achieved e.g. white = 1-6, red = 7-12, blue 13-18 etc.

Laser-cut squares glued to coins (these are magnetic to aid storage)



Basing mix (I use brown decorators caulk topped with sand) added around the outside of the dice holders, taking care not to get any inside or the dice won't fit.  Then suitable scenic items were added. In this case I've used some medieval weapons and shields from Magister Militium's Shield and Weapons ranges http://www.magistermilitum.com/prodtype.asp?PT_ID=978&strPageHistory=cat as the markers are for a Robin Hood game.



When the basing was dry I sprayed them dark brown and drybrused with my usual basing colours.



After finishing the scenic items with shield transfers and paint I added static grass.



Just need a coat of matt varnish to seal the grass and protect the paintwork



Also made a few 'unloaded' and 'out of arrows' markers using the same method but without the dice holders



Dr D



 

[Operator5]

Like the idea for holding dice. I may have to do that at some point.

And the final pieces turned out really well.

[zizi666]

Had the same idea recently.
In time, I'll create my own dead markers for my 15mm WW2 Canadians.
1 body and room for a small D6.
I was thinking of a simple square cut out from a disc, but I like your approach. 

[aggro84]

Those look great!
That's a very cool idea!
 

[mikedemana]

They look great, but you could take it one step further and eliminate the dice. Have what you put on the flocked pieces represent what you're keeping track of. For example, a solid shield is one hit. A shield with two "fields" (two colors) is two, one that is quartered is four, and so on.

It can be applied to other game mechanics, too. I have a friend who plays Two Hour Wargames. The Rep of the figure (usually 3-5) is all-important. He flocked the figures with small stones. Three stones for a Rep 3, four for Rep 4, and so on.

To me, the game aids should add to the look of the table - not detract. That said, those are some very nice markers! If I had to have dice next to figs, I'd want them to look like those...!

Mike Demana

[Dave C]

Love the idea, but I am curious as to where you got your laser cut dice holders from?

[OSHIROmodels]

Have what you put on the flocked pieces represent what you're keeping track of. For example, a solid shield is one hit. A shield with two "fields" (two colors) is two, one that is quartered is four, and so on.

That's what I suggested; but alas, to no avail  

cheers

James

[fastolfrus]

Love the idea, but I am curious as to where you got your laser cut dice holders from?

Don't know where he got them from but I saw some today at Fiasco.
Called dice frames available from Minibits (www.minibits.net), come in 5/7/10/12mm sizes.

[fastolfrus]

Dr D - surprised at you using coins like that.
I had heard that it was bad luck to use the head - hope it doesn't jinx your army.

[Dr DeAth]

They look great, but you could take it one step further and eliminate the dice. Have what you put on the flocked pieces represent what you're keeping track of. For example, a solid shield is one hit. A shield with two "fields" (two colors) is two, one that is quartered is four, and so on.

It can be applied to other game mechanics, too. I have a friend who plays Two Hour Wargames. The Rep of the figure (usually 3-5) is all-important. He flocked the figures with small stones. Three stones for a Rep 3, four for Rep 4, and so on.

To me, the game aids should add to the look of the table - not detract. That said, those are some very nice markers! If I had to have dice next to figs, I'd want them to look like those...!

Mike Demana

That's what I suggested; but alas, to no avail 

cheers

James

When I sat down to work things through, with the intent of using the coloured shields that jimbibbly and I discussed, I went with the dice for the following reasons:

• To get the range of scores from fixed number markers that you can get from a dice you need 3 markers, a one, a two and a three (1,2,3, 3+1, 3+2, 3+2+1), so I'd need three times the number of markers.
• Changing the colour of the dice used gives even more flexibility in the values a single marker can represent, e.g. white = 1-6, red = 7-12, black 13-18 etc.
• Each unit needs only have one marker behind it, this is important given that some units can get over 20 points of shock using the Sharp Practice rules (which is the reason I made these), using fixed value markers that would be 7 things behind the unit that you have to move with it.
• It's easier to change the number on the dice than swap around markers of different values.

That's not to say that colour coded shields/designs and or stones aren't a good idea, I think they are; just not for marking shock when there's 20+ units on the table 

[YPU]

Its been a while but I recal reading somewhere on BGG that having tokens in 1,3,7  (I believe) markings allows you to note values with fewer tokens then say 1,5,10 you might find in some games. Worth thinking about if anybody else is making their own markers.

That interesting note aside, I love the look of these. I have found that having random dice on the board sometimes get snatched up for a quick roll. Having these markers makes it clear the dice has a function AND creates some nice battlefield debris.

[fastolfrus]

I think the dice frames I saw at Fiasco were intended to be fixed to figure bases/movement trays, the suggestion being that you have them as part of the unit base and then they move with the unit rather than trailing along behind.

[Dr DeAth]

Don't know where he got them from but I saw some today at Fiasco.
Called dice frames available from Minibits (www.minibits.net), come in 5/7/10/12mm sizes.

That's the one's I used, the 7mm size.

[Elk101]

I like the counters; very smart. Those dice frames would be great for our artillery loading rules. Nice find.