Water effects , rivers ,lakes

[marcusluis]

Looking for the best way to do water on terrain boards, mainly stagnant pools and rivers. Any tips???

[Mitch K]

Looking for the best way to do water on terrain boards, mainly stagnant pools and rivers. Any tips???

This was my take on it:
http://mitchwargaming.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/swamp-music.html

End results was this:


Looks pretty reesty and stagnant to me

Hope this helps,

M

[Cubs]

There are lots of water effect crystals and liquids out there, but the most effective (to my eye) is multiple layers of gloss varnish (tinted with a drop of ink) over slightly sunken bases.

[marcusluis]

Yes thanks guys ive got some yatch varnish, will try that out , like the accidental ripples buy the way..

[Mitch K]

Yes thanks guys ive got some yatch varnish, will try that out , like the accidental ripples buy the way..

Cheers. I'd like to tell you how I did it, but I haven't a clue!

[sundayhero]

If you want to do ripples, you can add some acrylic heavygel (arts and creative stores) to your gloss medium/varnish too

Using this "flat" technic you have to make a fake underwater background. If you want real 3d, you'll have to use some crystal resin or similar.

[marcusluis]

Whats crystal resin and where do you get it from..?

[sundayhero]

Personnaly, I'm using Pebeo crystal resin, simply because it was the only one available in my aera. But I'm sure there is other options out there.


But if you don't need a real 3D depth effect, using acrylic varnish (or medium) + some Heavygel will give you really nice results, for cheap. Here's also a link detailling a lot of water effects technics :


http://www.stormthecastle.com/diorama/diorama-water-and-water-effects.htm



As you can see in the link, dOn't forget modelling products too, if they are available in your aera. Personaly, I'm using arts supplies because here they are the only products available.

[grant]

http://www.stormthecastle.com/diorama/diorama-water-and-water-effects.htm

Great link - that's going in the favourites!

[pacarat]

I have been experimenting with this product:

http://www.liquitex.com/stringgel/

Did a couple of waters's edge bases for some Cthulhu deep ones as a test. Pretty happy with results. I added some ink washes to darken the texture. Still appears to be translucent, although I may have put too much in.

It was quick, easy to apply, no smell or mess, and water based...will get a pic posted shortly.

[Hammers]

Whats crystal resin and where do you get it from..?

Woodland Scenics. It  is slightly yellow so it doesn't suit all purposes. Also you need to heat it  so beware of pouring it onto heat sensitive materials.

I, when I was a sweet young thing, used it like so...

[Cubs]

That's laverly Hammers. How do you get the straight edges? Do you have to build some sort of box for it to sit in before you pour?

[6milPhil]

There are lots of water effect crystals and liquids out there, but the most effective (to my eye) is multiple layers of gloss varnish (tinted with a drop of ink) over slightly sunken bases.

This is the original old school way and still the best to my mind. You can also paint on the layers, when dry, which can add depth. You simply put darker shades at the bottom, with lighter near the top.

[AndrewBeasley]

After a little scare http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=61102.0 I can reccomend the Magic Water two part resin.

I have tried most things on the market and come down to

Modge Podge for small areas or textured waves
Gloss varnish for flat areas esp the Envirotex two part 'varnish'
Magic Water (very well mixed) for deep puddles or larger deep areas.

I would not touch Woodland Scenics Realistic Water due to its shrink ability or EZ-water due to heat melting the foam.

Given I can get bubbles in most things, Magic Water is the one I will trust now as the bubbles just go away 

One point to remember, these liquids will find any minuscule gap and spread out.  I have used PVA glue, followed by flexi-paste followed by two layers of paint to cover the boards and still have the liquids spread into the darn thing... Now I use the first pour to fill the gaps and top up as required.

Andrew