My Grand Terrain Mat Fiasco '14 (updated 20/7 - Finished!)

[grant]

The only brand I could get at the Home Depot here that was acrylic only and not a part-acrylic, part-silicone mixture was Mono. 

That is weird. DAP: http://soldatetain.wordpress.com/2014/02/01/utabi-terrain-for-the-desert/

Dirt cheap, works great. Totally paintable.

[Atheling]

Canvas, or something similar.

You need to stretch it taut while the caulk and paint dry and cure.

How do you stretch it? Staple it or nothing that drastic?  

Oh, and has anyone got any idea where to buy Acrylic Caulk in the UK?

Darrell.

[FramFramson]

Prestretched canvases were on sale, so I got one. But I've stretched canvas many times and purchased more canvas to re-use with the same frame so I can make more mats. Yes, you'd use staples (proper, heavy ones) to hold the canvas in place.

[Papa Spanky]

You can stretch it or not, its all preference. you will get a smoother, flater end result if you strech , but I've seen some made that werent stretched at all and they looked fine. I stretch mine but I only temporarily clamp it to the table with hand clamps. I would iron it if it was folded though.

[Atheling]

Prestretched canvases were on sale, so I got one. But I've stretched canvas many times and purchased more canvas to re-use with the same frame so I can make more mats. Yes, you'd use staples (proper, heavy ones) to hold the canvas in place.

Yeah, I've stretched a few canvases in my time too (Fine Art at Uni), that's why I was asking how you stretched them  . I always use a staple gun 

Thanks for letting me know  .

Darrell.

[doctor_ocks]

Here's my game mat thread with links to the tutorials http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=54727.0

I've used the slow drying caulk before (got it at walmart when Home Depot was out of DAP) and painted within a couple of days after application. Seemed to work fine.

[FramFramson]

Here's my game mat thread with links to the tutorials http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=54727.0

I've used the slow drying caulk before (got it at walmart when Home Depot was out of DAP) and painted within a couple of days after application. Seemed to work fine.

Your tutorial is actually what I'm using as my reference. I've had them bookmarked for ages.

[Atheling]

Your tutorial is actually what I'm using as my reference. I've had them bookmarked for ages.

And it is going to prove to be very useful too!! Hurrah!! 

Darrell.

[FramFramson]

Ugh, so today I thought I'd finally really do it, I'd finally get my terrain mat on the way. Ohhhh no, instead I wound up throwing everything out.

I don't know what I did wrong, but the caulk would not spread for ANYTHING. It was horribly thick, viscous, and above all, sticky. This crap stuck to EVERYTHING.I immediately ruined the latex gloves I was using to spread around the caulk and I haven't even gotten to the sand yet!

Then I tried adding sand and spreading the stuff with something tougher, but that didn't work either - it was still horribly sticky, the sand clumped, and nothing spread any better. Worst of all, it became very clear that I was not going to get anything decent in terms of an actual usable texture for a wargaming mat.

Here's a few pictures from right before I threw in the towel and pitched everything.







The dull colour was because I was using coloured caulk. You can see in the second picture the peaks and swirls I would have been left with had I left it to dry.

I don't really know what else I could have bought. As mentioned earlier in this thread, there was only a single brand of acrylic caulk in the Home Depot here that didn't have any silicone in it (MONO). Every other brand is a part silicone, part acrylic mix (or just straight silicone), and while Home Depot carries DAP products, I certainly didn't see any DAP caulk (I also tried RONA, which is another builder's chain around here). So I really don't know what else I could have bought. The stuff I had was exterior caulk - not sure if that matters?

An hour later, my hands are still buzzing from all the mineral spirit I had to use to get this crap off my hands. What a ruin.

[Dr DeAth]

well that sucks

[Mr. Peabody]

Bummer... I know that ras'n-cras'n feeling only too well.

Some articles recommend making an easy to control mix by extending / diluting the caulking with paint and mixing sand or other texture into that. If you decide to go for a re-match, you should consider going this route...

Also, buy a box of the gloves and wear them doubled-up.

[grant]

Wow, that sucks man.

When I've used it, I use a large drywall knife tool, as big as I can get, and spread the DAP all over, and then move it around using the tool. Kind of like drywall mud. Add sand after. And then, using a wet small paint roller, go over top. Keep wetting and wringing out the roller to keep it from clogging up.

[FramFramson]

Also, buy a box of the gloves and wear them doubled-up.

I had a whole bag of the things. They didn't last worth a damn. Even if they had, they wouldn't have done much good, because the caulk was so damned sticky it basically glued my hands down.

Going to go down to Home Depot again to see if they have the DAP Alex or not. Maybe I just missed it last time

[Alfrik]

I use a piece of base board trim as a "spreader" for the caulk once its plopped or squeezed onto the section of canvas surface, said surface being taped or stapled down around the edges to hold it flat. When the area I want to work on is covered/spread out, I pour the surface material over it in great quantity, grab a rolling pin and work the surface material in. Leave it alone over night. Stand it on edge Very slowly over newsprint to catch excess surface material, there should be a lot. Let Dry for another day. Then I start the next section, typically 1/3 to 1/2 of the total area.

When done, having given the last section 2 days to dry, spritz with the usual diluted pva to help keep the surface material in place.

I ran tests on some 1 foot x 1 foot pieces before I tackled a large matt  (4x6 feet and larger)Have done 5 matts this way with no problems, but caulk is Very sticky, nods.... I was a professional house painter and can attest to that. Also I buy the "Brushable" (you can use an old paint brush to spread it)caulking in a Tub from Kelly Moore so I don't have to split / squeeze tubes. "Trowelable" in a tub is MUCH Thicker caulk.

[Papa Spanky]

Using a large joint compound knife (drywall knife) will help tremendously. Most important is to use water to wet your tools. a knife, your gloved hands, whatever you use, wet them down first as it will keep the acrylic caulk from sticking so much. It will also extend your working time a bit. Experiment witht your caulk on a small scrap first, so you get a feel for its properties.
Hope this helps.