Questions About 3D Printed Models

[undead_jon]

I'm looking to get some bits from Shapeways soon and had a couple of questions from people here that have some experience with them.

1 - Type of resin.  Some of the pieces I'm looking at have a dozen or so choices of resin to use.  Is there really any difference between the quality of the more expensive stuff and the cheaper versions?  What would you recommend as the best one to choose?

2 - Upon arrival.  I've seen a lot of people mention using ultrasonic cleaners on 3D printed stuff.  Can someone explain what is the advantage of using one and what is the best way to use it?

Any help you guys can give would be greatly appreciated.

J

[Cubs]

1. I'm no expert but using the correct resin for the job you're doing is essential. I don't know how much is 'better' and how much is 'right fit'. For instance, for a 28mm model you might be looking for crisp detail and strength in thin parts. But for a terrain piece you might be looking for a measure of elasticity and hard wearing texture, to protect it from the bumps and knocks these things inevitably must endure.

2. Pass. I guess this is a smoothing tool to get rid of tiny burs and bits of flash? Well, why not, if it does the job. I've only worked with resin a couple of times but I just use a hobby knife, same as I do with plastic and metal.

[Silent Invader]

Ultrasonic cleaners are used in craft, medicine and industry.

My wife has one: essentially a bath of water through which ultrasound is passed.

I guess putting a 3D printed model through one would remove all sorts of loose muck.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultrasonic_cleaning

[shandy]

I only ordered once and took the cheapest kind of resin, which was rather rough and porous. It also takes at least two layers of watered down PVA glue to make paint stick - otherwise it absorbs it like plaster. Never ordered again as the better quality material made everything very expensive.
However, my experience was about two years ago, so things might have changed.

[Not yet dead]

I have tried shapeways before and what I got back was rough and unuseable. Paint got sucked into the material and the finish was really gritty.

I now use an "Envisiontec" machine in SLA DLP process using "RCP130" orange. After cleaning you can use it as the master for casting. It is not cheap, but you have a really smooth finish, and the detail is also really good.







Cheers

Toni

[Connectamabob]

I don't think any of the Shapeways stuff is really any good for minis. Most of it is too low res, too delicate, or both. The only material that I'd consider good enough detail wise is both delicate and plagued with various serious print QC issues that haven't appeared to have improved in the two years or so it's been offered. Some of their stuff is probably good for vehicles, but even there you'd probably have too do a lot of finishing work. Apart from the jewelry metals IMO Shapeways' actual utility seems limited to novelties and tech prototyping.

I'm not sure there's any printing tech or material currently that produces objects with the right combo of resolution, durability, and price needed for end-use products. Mostly I see people doing like Not Yet Dead: paying more for an industry-level service that can actually do good detail reliably, then using those prints as masters for casting.

It'll happen eventually. IMO the lack of quality economic printing options is pretty much all that's keeping traditional sculpting alive (apart from materials like stone, ceramic, or wood). In less than ten years (maybe even less than five) the pound of toy wax I just bought will be 100% obsolete. Kinda sucks right now during the awkward transition period though. I've got 28mm vehicle designs (among other things) I'd love to make real, but even the cheapest, crappiest materials are too expensive for anything over a few CC in volume.