A Tale from the Tin Shed,28mm Traction Engine & 8"Howitzer from Cereal Packet

[FramFramson]

I guess this isn't an intractable problem after all.

[Constable Bertrand]

A touch more...



Now to do those front springy bits....

[tin shed gamer]

Here's a few more pictures.I haven't glued the rear wheels on as I've still some detailing to do.As your building faster than I can post

[FramFramson]

Cripes would you look at THAT!

[Constable Bertrand]

Oh Mark, that's unfair. Shall we swap?

Yours looks good mate, nice and round, sharp corners, nice even little detailing... former user was right, you are a Master Builder.

Cheers
Matt.

[dampfpanzerwagon]

Superb.

Tony

[tin shed gamer]

No it's just mirror's and clever lighting.
The trick is precurve your card and a dry run.When I have a bit that has refused to do as it's told,I soak a little glue onto the area and sand out the kink/bump,then apply a little smear of glue over the top to stop it fluffing up the surface.

[Rob_bresnen]

I find it difficult to believe you made that out of card- you have mad skilz!

[tin shed gamer]

Well its a good job I posted pictures before I painted it then 
Which brings me to the point, As I intended this to be a Q & A led tutorial.Do I need to go over wheel construction,or would you prefer to move onto the limber?
If you want I'll post pictures of the first engine finished and painted before the next section or leave it till the end.
Mark.

[former user]

Which brings me to the point, As I intended this to be a Q & A led tutorial.Do I need to go over wheel construction,or would you prefer to move onto the limber?
If you want I'll post pictures of the first engine finished and painted before the next section or leave it till the end.

I don't see anything wrong with doing both, if You wish to humble us with Your generosity 

[Constable Bertrand]

I agree to be humbled by your mad skills in detail now.

So you try to glue picture side to picture side so it glues better?

How did you connect the spokes to wheel rim? I just jammed it on and squirted superglue everywhere. not very... Professional.

I've found the card to be thick when doing some tubes. I've tried to sand the outside overlap down but there is still the issue of having uneven thicknesses around the rim. One cannot calculate in a dry run exactly how long you need the card to be before rolling and gluing.

If you use Uhu glue, do you need to reinforce it with another glue? Won't it come apart?

Do you make nets with tabs to fold and glue to, or did you go individual planes of card? I did some nets for added strength but they arnt very neat in card stock at that scale... And left some gaps. Would any green stuff work as gap filler on cardboard?

Cheers
Matt.

[tin shed gamer]

 Okay Matt I'll come clean .
Picture side to picture side for three reason's The print has in effect bonded the upper fibre layers of the card.So it doesn't peel the glued parts away from the card without a good deal of effort.
The glue doesn't soak in so fast that you need a second application,nor does it take as long to dry( but its still a lot longer than the packet states)
The third is for me the most important,The colour print is applied in layers and is proud of the surface.You can't really see it but belive me its there.The last thing you want is to go to all the effort of building and painting a model.Only to have the light catch it and your reading corn flakes down the side of your model.
Uhu I tend to use for but joints,and gap filling on smaller models(I'll add a few pictures of model which Uhu was used on it will be quicker to show than to write)gluing layers together ,makes something between a ply,and Mdf.so it becomes a lot stronger that it looks.(depending on which glue,Pva gives a board that works well on curves,never use horizontal as it will warp.Uhu great for vertical boards and joints will warp but less than pva,The evil glue will give a stiffer board but fumes make it unsafe for large areas.again it will warp before it sets on large areas.)
You can use green stuff on card,Best results smear a little evil on and around thea area it will stiffen the board and tie down the fibres so the clay will hold.
From your picture it looks like you've applied too much as you curved the card round and then had to stop andd add more glue.So when you stop the glue is soaking into the card you want to curve and past where it attatches to the surface.so your attempting to bend a small amount of stiffend card which kinks when you glue down past it.
The trick is to hold the card in its curved state onto the surface well past the last glued point and allow it to dry.The stiffend area will keep the curve.When you add the next amount of glue don't butt it up to the last bit,it will flow and soak in both directions.The small gap stops you from spraining or kinking the stiffend card.Also make sure your making use of the natural bend of the card.This should help with the uneven curving issue.
I'll do a photo led guide to wheels which should shed some light as its a method that seems a little back to front.I'll run through neater tubes when I cover the howitzer barrel as thats where its needed most.
I hope that make's sence

[Constable Bertrand]

Thanks Mark,

're gluing printed sides.
I assumed it was for reason 3, but you make good points on all accounts.

're gluing curved card
I have been making sure I cut and prebend along the paper grain and this has helped a lot. It's certainly taken out much of the kinks. I did indeed have difficulty gluing the first bit to the right diameter then gluing the next section. On the last few I've dry rolled, held it firmly at the correct size, then oozed evil glue at a number of points across the layers. Let that dry then hit it with some more! I may have used 3 tubes of superglue so far!

're U-hu
I cannot believe you've used it as a gap filler.  I eagerly await photo evidence from your mad laboratory.

're Wheels.
You better come clean, I've got my eye on you Mark. 



Cheers
Matt.

[tin shed gamer]

  I didn't mention Net's.I don't use nets for major construction.Card at this scale will always leave gaps when you fold up the sides.
I do use very simple nets when the limitations of card nets are a plus.
The 'U' shaped bracket for the front wheels being one. Its a simple 'T'shaped net.
drawn as six cubes.five for the cross bar of the 'T' and one for the leg.the three cuts almost completely through the card on the 'grey' side.one where the leg joins the bar of the T. then one square in at each end of the bar.Then fold and glue the squares back over onto the printed side.Then raise the ends to form a 'U' shape.which gives curved corners on the outside.
Most /all joints are taken to be flat pannels with simple butt joints.This will reduce gaps and the need to fill.So this is where you can use Uhu as a filler as it dries hard.Lightly wet your finger and smear a little glue in the gap.Don't be tempted to try and fill the gap in one go.Small amounts and a couple of runs is the way to go.(you will be peeling glue off your fingers for a while though )

[tin shed gamer]

Here's a couple of simple projects that used only Pva,and or Uhu.