Captain Blood's very titchy (15mm) barbarians. P.25 - the armies assemble

[AKULA]

 

Topus notchus

The bearskin in the roof, and the shields by the door if the Chiefs hut are nice touchs

[Ockman]

Utterly, utterly amazing!! 

[Silent Invader]

Damn good !!! 

[Eric the Shed]

Just discovered this - looks fantastic

Would you be interested in another knauf board? I have one spare in the shed....the cost = an invite to play on this table

[majorsmith]

Looks fantastic

[gamer Mac]

Loving it
The last photo with your amazing figures is stunning

[Elk101]

That looks stunning Richard. The board has a real natural look that's very hard to achieve.

[Captain Blood]

Thanks 

Just discovered this - looks fantastic

Would you be interested in another knauf board? I have one spare in the shed....the cost = an invite to play on this table

I will take you up on that kind offer Giles - I was wondering if you still had one or two tucked away somewhere 

[von Lucky]

Very nice. Do the runes have a particularly meaning?

[Captain Blood]

I’m sure they do, but TBH, I just picked ones that looked nice

[Eric the Shed]

Thanks 

I will take you up on that kind offer Giles - I was wondering if you still had one or two tucked away somewhere 

i have several but you can only have one

[Mason]

That looks cracking, sir.
Loving the green thatching/turf.
All the details really make it pop.
 

Now onto the goblins, eh?
 

[Swordisdrawn]

Very smart indeed. 

[Captain Blood]

Thanks chaps 

Right then... Next phase on the new 'Pictish Wilderness' board is painting in all the stone, rock, etc

So we were at this stage...



And now we're at this stage...





Probably most helpful to describe the process in steps:

1. Paint all rock and stone areas in a basecoat of mixed black and white emulsion to make a medium grey, cut with a splosh of khaki VMC - because rock is never really true grey.
2. Once dry, sponge over with a couple of lighter shades of the same mix (gradually adding small amounts of white), to pick up on the raised areas.
3. Drybrush features like the cliff stair, clapper bridge, standing stones, scree etc with a slightly paler mix still to pick up the edges
4. To then tone it all together and knock back the starkness of the drybrushing / sponge stippling, using a big soft brush, drench the entire board in white spirit, and then drop in VERY thinned amounts of a mix of Payne's Grey / Burnt Umber oil paint, allowing it to pool around the scree and in crevices etc.
5. Once the white spirit has evaporated, leaving the shading behind, go over the whole thing with a small paintbrush and in a lighter stone grey colour, pick out all the little bits and pieces of stone / boulders etc. Sounds tedious, but actually you can do it really quickly. Just a quick dab on every one to make it pop out from the background and lend definition...
6. Finally, using a very thin wash of greeny-yellow-khaki, (like 95%water, 5% paint) just go over the areas of the rock where it should appear weathered - more so near where the rock joins the ground, and closer to water: so the rock near to the river has a distinctly greeny tinge, whereas the rocky areas furthest from the river are almost bone dry and have very little...











Next step - greening with grass and vegetation... 

[Ockman]

Lovely work, friend!