Glueing Minis to Clear Bases?

[Binky]

I'm tempted to start using clear acrylic bases for my minis, on some old threads I've read some people are just using superglue with varying levels of "fogging" although all the photos I've seen look fine to me.

However on the Fenris Games website they recommend "Models will require drilling and pinning to fix in place".

Is pinning really necessary? Or are most people getting on just fine with glue? I'm ok with a small amount on fogging around the feet if I can avoid having to drill and pin everything.

Any advice, glue recommendations etc are welcome. Thanks

[sasori]

It's the fumes from the drying super glue that causes the fogging. So if you set them in front of a fan immediately after sticking them to the base until the glue is dry you will have no fogging.

[OSHIROmodels]

I would recommend pinning at least one foot to the base. You could also use two part epoxy glue but that can be a big faff and a mess if you're not used to using it.

Regarding the fogging, you can buy activator for the superglue (I would strongly recommend a pipet dispenser and not the spray) which will help to negate it. Also, a light coat of gloss varnish can also help to reduce the fog.

Other options/opinions are also available 

[Vanvlak]

I would recommend PVA glue, applied in judicious amounts, not extending beyond the feet of the model. No fogging, usually bonds plastic models well. I have not tried it on metal models, however.
It needs more time to set of course.

[Major_Gilbear]

I would recommend pinning at least one foot to the base. You could also use two part epoxy glue but that can be a big faff and a mess if you're not used to using it.

Regarding the fogging, you can buy activator for the superglue (I would strongly recommend a pipet dispenser and not the spray) which will help to negate it. Also, a light coat of gloss varnish can also help to reduce the fog.

All of this!!

[Golgotha]

This is great advice. Is anything going to change should one be using clear plastic card from packaging?

[Codsticker]

I would recommend pinning at least one foot to the base.

Thirded!

I used superglue in the teeniest, tiniest amount I could get away with and there is just a slight bit of fogging that is only noticeable in close up photos.

[tin shed gamer]

You can quite successfully ( although not always completely) use a cotton bud/ cue tip. To buff out light frosting. It works particularly well on the clear package plastics. In fact I use it when I'm scratch building scenery.As you can more or less guarantee at least one window pane will frost.
You can get a super glue designed for glass that doesn't frost anywhere near as easily. But it can be awkward with some plastics as can the drying times.

But one pin is always a bonus when it comes to acrylic.

[Major_Gilbear]

Well, it's probably worth remembering that one reason superglue fog (and superglue itself) is so hard to remove from acrylic is that superglue is a Cyanoacrylate. So as the name suggests, anything you use to chemically remove the superglue, will also damage the plastic.

You can in some cases rub the fogged areas with something like Brasso to improve them, but you've got to apply the stuff without getting it on the model, scrub the offending area, and then wash off the whole thing afterwards... Not ideal really.

This is great advice. Is anything going to change should one be using clear plastic card from packaging?

That sort of plastic is commonly Polyethylene Terephthalate (often abbreviated to PETE or PET). It bonds okay with superglue, but it has several drawbacks. It's thin and flexible, so if you catch the base on something, it can pop off the model, it can get creased (or warp if it gets warm enough), and it goes yellow and brittle over time (around 10-ish years based on my experience?). Those may not be drawbacks to you, in which case fair enough. However, if they are, at least you know what to expect.

[MikeLance]

I'm using model aeroplane canopy glue...
https://www.rchobbies.co.nz/zap-pt56-formula-560-canopy-glue-59ml/

It is made to avoid fogging problems, is transparent, and grips well when set.

[Major_Gilbear]

@ MikeLance:

FYI, Canopy glue is just fancy and fairly concentrated PVA glue. Not that that's bad, as most PVA glue sold is diluted to some degree and often thickened up as well (kids' PVA being the weakest and most full of filler generally-speaking). So for metal models, I don't know how well this would work unless the contact area with the base is a decent size.

[Mako]

There are some clear, gel glues available for sale in various craft stores which should work.

Probably about the same strength as white glue, but at least it will NOT fog the acrylic, which is a huge plus.

[ced1106]

Late to the thread, but, yes, pin. Still less work than basing! Army Painter has a nice cheap hand drill. Pinning with acrylic bases is less tricky than, say, pinning a metal arm to a figure. If it fogs, just use another base and be careful. Save it for another, bigger, figure. You can certainly paint it and use it as a regular base!

Clear bases look GREAT on sf mini's, and you don't have a base mismatching the board. Plus, if you're cutting off an integrated base from a figure, you can now also paint it from underneath easier, without the integrated bases blocking your way. Looks too high-tech to me for generic fantasy or historicals, imo.