Clear bases

[Redshank]

I must admit, basing has never been my favourite task.

On top of which, there is always that awkward moment when figures with bases covered in green flock are standing on a road or in the desert. No matter how good the basing or the tabletop, it is bound to look off.

I am starting to look into clear perspex or similar basing. From a google around, I understand the downside is the edge of the base catches the light and looks bad. So I've taken the plunge and ordered some 1mm thick "clear acrylic" off amazon for the princely sum of £6. On the upside, not much edge to catch the light. On the downside, it might be too bendy, as I want to base 28mm in groups of 4 or 6. Anyway, I'll start to get an idea.

I had a look around here as well and came across a thread from 2019 where people were sharing some minis that looked pretty good to me. I suppose things might have moved on in terms of what's available.

Any perspex-tives? (Sorry...)

[Funkmachine7]

They dont hide anything, if your lazy with painting boots normaly the bases paint will cover any splashs or runs.   
I also think that there also only good for flat footed figures, trying to convert slotter based minis is more work. 
Also how do you avoid super glue frosting from showing up with them.

[Fitz]

In my experience, they're more trouble than they're worth. You have to be very careful with your gluing or else you get unsightly frosting or blobbing, and the light reflection off the perfectly smooth surface just makes the figures look like they're standing in puddles.

[ced1106]

Aesthetically, I'd only use clear bases with SF miniatures, although I'm fine with prepainted fantasy miniatures on clear bases (eg. MageKnight boardgame).

Tutorial using cardboard to minimize glue. You can also drill, so you apply glue to the pin.

https://saturdaymornings13.blogspot.com/2019/02/clear-bases-tutorial-ver-20.html

[Kelly_]

I have used clear bases several times, 1/8 inch acrylic, but not with 28mm or with metal models.  Resin and plastic miniatures at 15mm and 20mm worked great when multibased, either 5, 10, or 20 to a base, and with relatively close (within arms-reach) placement of the miniatures there was not enough open space of clear acrylic to really have a glare issue.

I avoided frosting issues by not using superglue, but Elmer's washable clear PVA glue, which does dry incredibly clear and was strong enough to hold the smaller scale models in place.

For anything metal, I would definitely recommend pinning if the base is thick enough, as well lightly scoring the footprint on the base, as well as the bottoms of the feet, so there is a rougher surface for the glue to adhere to.

[Mad Lord Snapcase]

I use very thin plastic for my bases and glue metal or plastic figures directly onto them with superglue. Not a very good photo here, but it shows the bases quite well.

[Malebolgia]

Used it on my Walking Dead stuff and I think it's...okay. The bases look great during gaming, but even with superglue the models snap off sometimes. But I started that project with clear bases, so will keep doing them that way.
I'm using 3mm perspex.

[gweirda]

Like MadLord, I use a thin (.030") material (from, iirc, a file storage folder?) that has a bit of texture to it so both the edge and glare problems are diminished.

If using sheet styrene (again: .030" stock) - After super-gluing the mini(s), I've given the entire thing a 'painting' of PVA to aid in both adhesion and glare-reduction (sanding the stock with 400-grit wet/dry also helps to cut the shiny).

It's work, to be sure - but no more than flocking?- and the whole "tracking the pasture into the house" problem is eliminated.

Sorry, no photos (may add some later if found...).

[fred]

The super thin ones look truly invisible

But how do they work if they are so thin? I'm surprised that the figures stand-up and the bases don't end up creased.

[pixelgeek]

On top of which, there is always that awkward moment when figures with bases covered in green flock are standing on a road or in the desert. No matter how good the basing or the tabletop, it is bound to look off.

I have always had this concern when basing figures. And I can't really recall any game I have played where I really noticed it. Even when my desert based models have been climbing on a set of stone ruins with patches of snow on them. Once you start playing a game I think that you will not really notice the bases at all.

For me a base is part of the theme of the model. Fantasy models have different schemes than sci-fi models and I often choose schemes that are different for each army.

I think that no matter what you pick you will find that the process is fussy. Styrene bases look very cool for skirmish games but I suspect that every issue that styrene solves comes with a styrene specific problem.

[pixelgeek]

I use very thin plastic for my bases and glue metal or plastic figures directly onto them with superglue. Not a very good photo here, but it shows the bases quite well.

Even zoomed in you can barely see them.

What do you use to stop the superglue from frosting?

[emosbur]

No frosting problem if you use UV clear resin as glue.

Milo.

[ced1106]

I use very thin plastic for my bases and glue metal or plastic figures directly onto them with superglue. Not a very good photo here, but it shows the bases quite well.

Great job. Photo's fine. I suspect the lads are too busy for a group photo. (:

Anyway, not surprised that thin plastic will support plastic, although good to hear it will work for metal as well. I grew up with lead, and noticed that, even with the switch to lead-free metals, miniatures were becoming lighter.

[Doug ex-em4]

I use very thin plastic for my bases and glue metal or plastic figures directly onto them with superglue. Not a very good photo here, but it shows the bases quite well.

I can vouch for Snapcase’s bases, they do look good - much better than the acrylic ones which I think look too "slabby". If I were starting now, I’d copy the Snapcase technique.

Doug

[Freddy]

For me a base is part of the theme of the model. Fantasy models have different schemes than sci-fi models and I often choose schemes that are different for each army.

Same for me, I handle the base as part of the figure, and it really helps to bring an army together. When renovating an old, crappy unit, just make a rebasing, you will see what I mean.

I partially agree with the ,,diorama feeling" fans that figures would look better without a base on the terrain, but as they need to stand somehow, base is simply a necessary evil. Transparent bases look really cool on flat surfaces/cardboard terrain, but on a ,,normal" grass or 3d paved road they give almost the same visual emphasis as a ,,normal" base.

I the end, it is a matter of taste.