Pulp Alley - How to do Clear Bases

[DS615]

And MY KINGDOM! for a good glue that doesn't fog on the clear acryllic...

http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php/supplies/adhesives-1/plastic-model-adhesives/testors-clear-parts-cement-window-glue-w-applicator-1-oz.html.

Testors Clear Parts Cement/Window Glue.
 It's for modelers to use on airplane canopies and the like, where fogging is bad.
I've used it before, and it works very well. 

[Malebolgia]

Thanks for the link! But does it also work with metal models?

[Wolf Girl]

I try to use just a small drop of glue on both foot and then I lightly dab the feet on a piece of paper just to soak up the excess before placing it on the plastic base. I still get a little bit of fog once in awhile, but I also brush on a layer of flat lacquer and that usually covers up any fog I had.

We've had pretty good luck with the plastic bases. Only one miniature has come off its base and it was one that Dad glued, so... there ya go. 

[d phipps]

Sally 4th have just added some clear bases to their range. Currently a choice of 17.
These are made from 2mm crystal clear acrylic. We found gluing with super-glue worked well, and that a light spray with matt varnish could be used to remove the shine.



Bases are on Sally 4th at : http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Clear-Terra-Bases
and we have a gallery of clear bases in action at : http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Clear-Terra-Bases/Clear-Basing-Gallery

Very nice, Chris. Those look great! 

[Leapsnbounds]

Aieee! What is an old wargamer to do?  I have thousands of figures based the old fashioned way.  You're so right.  The clear bases look fantastic and versatile.  Decisions, decisions.  I don't know how to begin, because once, I've done one, I have to do them all.  There can be no turning back.  How to do it without losing Sanity  Points, I have so little of them remaining.

[FramFramson]

I sold my sanity points to an old guy in an alleyway so I could buy more miniatures.

[Wolf Girl]

I have a little over 50 figures on clear bases so far, and that's how I'm basing the new ones as I get them done.

With so much terrain to work on, it may be quite awhile before I go back to re-base the older figures.

[Chris Abbey]

We have had loads and loads of emails over the last week since we launched our range of clear Perspex bases asking about how we base / re-base figures onto them, so have added a step by step guide to taking your minis of their old bases and putting them onto some clear Perspex bases. Article is on our hobby pages at : http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Hobby-Pages/Pulp-Alley-28mm-Pulp-Adventure-Gaming/Rebasing-figures-onto-clear-bases

[Leapsnbounds]

This is definitely an inspiration to improve our art. I want to thank you for starting this thread.  A question I now have is storage and transport.  Currently with the fender washers I  am able to use magnetic sheeting and the Really Useful plastic boxes for transporting my forces.  How do you move your "new" figures around?

I couldn't agree with you more.  The clear bases are fantastic but I would like to get all the logistics out of the way before I start converting my collection.

[Chris Abbey]

I use Sally 4th Warchests with the appropriate sized slots to fit the bases.



Obviously I'm a bit biased as I designed the concept of Warchests, but they are our most popular product by a long way.
They come in 5 different heights, 35mm, 52.5mm, 70mm, 100mm & 120mm, choice of no lid, solid lid or clear lid and a choice of around 40 different inserts to hold different sizes and shapes of bases.

More details at : http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Figure-Storage-Chests

[d phipps]

I think one of those boxes would hold several Pulp Alley leagues. Great idea for folks that tote their minis around.

[Valerik]

Anybody tried the Litko clear bases?



I see they have a variety, in 2 different thicknesses, 1.5mm & 3mm.

My carefully coddled and cultivated natural indolence moves me towards easier,
low effort, readily available solutions, DIY be damned.
'specially when I need another project like I need 'nother neck.

At first glance I like the Sally4th ones better, 'specially that oval 25x50mm one which looks perfect for my various oat burners.  Chris' selection  simply seems superior.

Fact remains, his products are "Across the Pond"
With all the UK  social unrest lately I'd be worried about supply & availability...

Supporting fellow Pulp Alley players is important to me too.
'Druther spend my money with them than with some huge, faceless, enigmatic, all powerful, mega-gaming corporate conglomerate juggernaught...

Wait, no, No, NO!!  I am NOT so describing the Phipps, & Daughter Empire, I'd never do that!!

With Pulp Alley now infesting Britain perhaps some intrepid soul will finally satisfy our hunger for officially sanctioned Pulp Alley acrylic Burst Markers in groovy psychedelic colours...

/rant(s)

Valerik

"There's death a dozen times over, down the river..."
Mr Charles Allnutt, Esq.

[Samulus]

I use the litko clear bases (1.5mm) for my PA minis. They work great.

I like to pin mine as this is the only way to make sure they'll stay on without fogging the plastic, so this is an ideal thickness for me. Other's mileage may vary.

[Rhelyk]

I recently thought of the circle-cutter + toploader idea as well, and it works wonderfully. I'd used 1.5mm acrylic bases to good effect, but I dislike the mirrored edge effect you get with them, which is even worse with the 3mm clear bases.

One trick I also like to do is to hide the bead of glue that often forms around the feet with a little bit of black ink. Helps hide the join between the clear base a bit

[Wolf Girl]

I recently thought of the circle-cutter + toploader idea as well, and it works wonderfully. I'd used 1.5mm acrylic bases to good effect, but I dislike the mirrored edge effect you get with them, which is even worse with the 3mm clear bases.

One trick I also like to do is to hide the bead of glue that often forms around the feet with a little bit of black ink. Helps hide the join between the clear base a bit

We tried to find the clear bases and eventually gave up and started making our own. The die-cutter and top-loaders trick works wonders.

I really like the look of the clear bases from Sally 4th, but I'm afraid Dad would go through the roof if I asked to re-base all the miniatures... AGAIN. 

I don't have much problem with a glue bead, but we brush a satin lacquer over the base as a final touch just to cut the shine a little. And that masks the occasional bead or fog thing.