Re: 3D 28mm Japanese Samurai range...test prints....UPDATED 4 March 2024 page 3

[ARKOUDAKI]

So I have been helping a talented 3D designer, Carl Haglund (Hokusa Designs), on a Japanese Samurai 28mm model project that he intends to release via a Kickstarter campaign later this year.

Carl sent me over some charging Ashigaru foot soldiers, and I printed them up as a test.

Overall, this looks to be a great range and I am looking forward to putting them together...but time is short this week so they will have to wait.
In the meantime, enjoy the photos.

[clibinarium]

Been following this with interest for months now; looking forward to the campaign. Carl does great work. When I saw his previews I decided not to proceed with my own samurai project as they would just overlap.

Curious as to what kind of resin you've used here- its quite dark?  I've used craftsman resin for printing master figures, but I do worry about it being strong enough for use for wargame figures on the table.

[ARKOUDAKI]

Yes, it looks like a really promising new range, one where you can print out loads of rank and file!

As for the resin, I use a cocktail mix of Siraya Tech Navy Grey and their Tenacious (80-20 mix) and it works really well. Since starting in 3D I have tried a lot of resins, and some are really bad, claiming to be 'ABS like' but being really brittle in reality....but this mix works well, yields great definition and has a lot of durability.

I will make weapons like long spears and such using resin spear tips with brass rod, and Carl has done these for this range too...they are in the container on the photos but underneath the sashimonos....but will get made soon!   

[peachey_c]

Excellent prints, look forward to seeing more 

[ARKOUDAKI]

Just to give you an idea of what they will look like, here is a 3D render of them as a group, Ashigaru charging with command. Just bare in mind this is an older photo and the models are very much a WIP. 🙂

[clibinarium]

Looking forward to seeing those prints assembled.

A thing I encountered in my experiments was the thickness of the rim of the Jingasa. If it tapers to a point (which, in-scale, it pretty much would) the rim can get so thin that it fails to print properly. It will print better if given a little thickness, which is not quite right for the look of things, but is maybe a necessary concession to the printing gods (and casting gods too I suppose). Pic for illustration below, hopefully it's self-explanatory.

So my question is- how to the jingasa come out on these prints? From what I can tell they look fine.

[Clearco]

I like them very much! Looking forward to see more pictures 

[ARKOUDAKI]

@clibinarium

The conical hats printed really well, with no problem at all. The key to do such shapes is how you orient them. On these, the heads are tilted back, so the neck curtain prints first and gives a good base and then a few very thin supports on the back edge of the conical shaped hats creates a really good rim, with no defects at all. So all good.

Here is a photo from MS 3D Builder of the head below on its own and with supports.

The designer has made a lot of different head variants, so you will be able to create a lot of variety in your units.

As you know, Samurai armor has a lot of hanging bits, and yet these are extremely well done. The initial supports were actually a bit too many, and the designer is working on that. That said, the scale and detail of everything is excellent. The joy of a good 3D printer is that you can recreate a lot of detail, and the armor comes out looking really good. This is just something you can't do in 2D plastic injection or metal mould processes.

I am looking forward to printing out the command unit and more bits and pieces this weekend! More photos to follow

[clibinarium]

Thanks for that. I was sure Carl would have worked it out, but I don't want to bombard him with questions, as I am sure he's getting a lot from excited prospective backers.

I'll have to try some of the Tenacious stuff, though I am not sure my printer would handle it well; I have a Photon 2 DLP, and it can be a little sensitive to small changes. . Just out of idle curiosity- what are you printing on and what layer thickness do you use?

[ARKOUDAKI]

@clibinarium

Yes, Carl does have a lot on his plate, with the Star Wars Patreon and working on this big Samurai project. Hence, why I am helping him on out. He is such a nice guy it is hard not to want to help him.

As for the ST Navy Grey and Tenacious cocktail, with a 2K Photon 2 DLP it may not be ideal, as the Navy Grey tends to cure more while it prints...so your exposure times would be long. I put away my old Photon ages ago and first replaced it with a PSM4K, and then added an Elegoo Mars 3. I have to say that both are great printers but I still yearn for better resolution. That said, while the PSM4K is great, I have also stopped using it, as the Mars 3 is just so easy to run, and has a slightly bigger build plate.

My next goal is to get into FDM....as there is a lot of scenery items and cosplay stuff for my son that I want to make. This 3D stuff is a disease!

More photos coming, as I just printed up some more of Hokusa's upcoming Samurai models...so watch this space!

[ARKOUDAKI]

Another test run of Hokusa's upcoming Samurai range. This time around the charging Ashigaru command and a Daimyo leader, with a bunch of accessories (don't pay attention to those muskets, they are for my Nap project! ).

Another successful print run, despite my being lazy and not stirring the resin more, as it had been sitting a few days. Hence, any light grey marks are down to me. All feedback sent back to the designer for revision. The quality of the models is really good and I continue to eagerly await the KS being ready to go!

The first three photos are of the latest Ashigaru/Samurai prints fresh off the assembly line, still a little wet from the ultrasonic clean I give all my 3D prints after cleaning with IPA baths and curing. I like to do what I can to remove all those tiny bits that appear in digital photos! 

The last photo is after the latest print run is all dry. Hoping to find time to put all of these Ashigaru models together and primed...but alas, work beckons this week so it will have to wait until next weekend...

So watch this space!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! More models are coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[peachey_c]

Looking great 

Is your last ultrasonic clean in water, IPA, or something else?

[ARKOUDAKI]

Well with the resin I use - Siraya Tech Navy Grey + Tenacious (80-20 cocktail) - when prints are off the printer, a bath of recycled and cleaned 100% IPA for just 60 secs (don't over clean or cure ST resins)...then air dry a bit on towel...then into boiling hot water for a few minutes...then remove the supports with a sharp No 11 blade, gently cutting where needed to reduce post clean-up time....then back on to towel to dry...then after dry, into a fresh 100% IPA for a final clean....toothbrush scrub with IPA if and where needed (shiny bits)...then air dry again on towel....only once fully dry, into my high tech curing device for 60 secs each side (these ST resins don't need much curing time, as if you do overcure them, they get brittle like other normal resins)....and then, into a freshwater bath in the ultrasonic for 2 cycles...then out of the water and left to air dry on a cloth towel.

Here are some pics to show you my 'high tech' set-up....

[peachey_c]

Thanks for your description, I do similar with my Hi Tech set up, except I watercure (about 3 minutes cure for Sunlu ABS resin, 28mm) and no ultrasonic.

My Hi Tech set up is an old biscuit tin lined with LEDs and baking foil, with a glass bowl of water in it. 

[ARKOUDAKI]

So aside from 'How to 3D tech'....what do you people think about this forthcoming 3D Samurai range. Help make this a better range with your comments and suggestions (the constructive types please!  )