Feasible to add new boards: 54mm (all inclusive) and/or plastic Army Men?

[Cat]

For painting, I've been giving my astronauts a soak in Simple Green and a toothbrush scrub, then a good rinse and dry before spray painting with Krylon Fusion.

[SgtSlag]

Feasible, yes, but we’re not going to do it

Since its inception almost 20 years ago, Lead Adventure has been organised by wargaming genres / periods.
We are, and have always been, scale agnostic - despite the overwhelming preference of most here for 28mm.

If we have a 54mm board, we’ll then get ‘why isn’t there a 6mm / 10mm /12mm / 15mm / 18mm / 20mm / 40mm (and so on) board?’ And we don’t need further category proliferation / fragmentation of content. It’s quite a long menu already.

So just find the appropriate ‘period’ board for your plastic army soldiers (presumably WWII) and post them there

Thanks.

Understood.  I've seen this recur, again and again, on other forums (TMP, in particular).  I appreciate the explanation, as it gives me boundaries and understanding on how you run this forum.  Very helpful.  Cheers!

[SgtSlag]

If there's plenty of action then I think it's a great idea (not a 54mm user myself) but would add one note of caution.

Some of the child boards seem very underpopulated and it might be a concern for another niche.

I absolutely agree.  It is hard to know how much to granulate a forum.  It is art, not science.

I've seen what you describe on other forums:  some have become overly granular, too restrictive, or too specific in their forums.  Like I said in my previous post, it is art, not science, so no hard/fast rules to follow, just what feels proper.  I am good with what the Admin stated.  Cheers!

[SgtSlag]

For painting, I've been giving my astronauts a soak in Simple Green and a toothbrush scrub, then a good rinse and dry before spray painting with Krylon Fusion.

I have come across multiple approaches to painting LDPE figures, over the past 27 years...  Prior to "Paint for Plastic" aerosols, there was a method of boiling the LDPE figures in water, in a dedicated pan, as toxic chemicals would allegedly leach out of the plastic figures, into the water and into the surface of the metal pan.  There is the tried and true PVA Glue pre-paint coating (never bothered with this, as it is too much work, IMO -- I need to paint around 1,000 figures, plus vehicles...).  However, the PVA Glue pre-paint technique is the one that everyone swears by.  If only I had begun using it, back in 1998, I'd have more painted Army Men figures than I could ever need by today, 27 years later...   

As I am not a chemistry student, I really don't know what will/will not work (I learned how to make Black Powder in 9th Grade, and that was trouble enough through chemistry  ).  I rely upon other's recommendations, followed by experimentation.

I have not heard of the Simple Green pre-soak technique, before.    I know of Simple Green soaking, full strength, to remove paint from figures.  Good to hear an updated technique!  I like fast and simple techniques -- a lot!  The simpler, the better, as long as it delivers results.  Thanks for sharing that!  Cheers!

[Aethelflaeda was framed]

Even if you can’t get much in the way of lead poisoning from handling minis…i would never want to live downwind from a lead smelter.

[Cat]

I have not heard of the Simple Green pre-soak technique, before.    I know of Simple Green soaking, full strength, to remove paint from figures.  Good to hear an updated technique!  I like fast and simple techniques -- a lot!  The simpler, the better, as long as it delivers results.  Thanks for sharing that!  Cheers!

Works a charm for removing finger oils from handling and encrusted back yard dirt from across the ages.  I've picked up most of my astronauts cheap on EBay, and some of them have authentic (possibly 1960s') dirt in the crevices!

[Moriarty]

I’ll remember that :-)