Winter is coming

[HerbertTarkel]

Almost all of my minis are done with a zenithal prime.

My latest commission was all “zenithal primed” when I got it. I don’t get it.

I reprimed every single model.

[pixelgeek]

My latest commission was all “zenithal primed” when I got it. I don’t get it.

I reprimed every single model.

Mostly used for 'slapchop' or speedpaint/contrast paint. I wouldn't use it if I was doing a standard paint job

[HerbertTarkel]

Mostly used for 'slapchop' or speedpaint/contrast paint. I wouldn't use it if I was doing a standard paint job

Ah, slapchop. Makes sense for that.

[pixelgeek]

Ah, slapchop. Makes sense for that.

Some people also use it when they paint with glazes or transparent coats. If you do it well then it adds some preshading to the model.

[mikedemana]

I have been told to stop spray painting yesterday was in the garage spraying some figures, and the spray can would not shut off, hammered on the button which flew off, and ive got a new can of army painter going off like a volcano, run out of the garage and lob it onto the lawn, no idea why, seemed like a good idea at the time, cue the lawn having a grey streak and our black springador a grey side as he thought it was good to run through the mist, wifey also not happy as freezer in the garage got a respray. So its brush coating from now on.

I was cracking up by the time I finished this paragraph on the spray disaster follies. I hope the dog likes his new stripes... 

Actually, I spray prime only terrain. Miniatures I brush on White Gesso as a primer. Though I may give Black Gesso a try when I begin my Dragon Rampant Orc/Goblin army...

Mike Demana

[Aethelflaeda was framed]

I never found zenithal priming to be worth the effort as a technique. Light sources from on high may not even be appropriate for many figs, when does a vampire get out into a high noon? I prefer a grisaille approach of working dark to light by building up in the color by brush with absolute control over placement rather than relying on luck and gravity.

I also don’t buy any of these newfangeled (and expensive…)speed paints or contrast paints other than a couple of times by accident.  I have always used mixes of washes of diluted paint and dry brushing of thicker paint to achieve shading and highlights.  I also like to mix my tints as i work upward to lighter from the darker shades.  Blocky swathes of contrast paints are too uniform for my taste.  i always like some some subtle contrasting layers in tone as well as shade such that some portions ostensibly the same color.

It seems to me a lot of the new techniques are really that much faster, or if they are, they lack subtlety.  Not really that different from dipping or washing.

[pixelgeek]

It seems to me a lot of the new techniques are really that much faster, or if they are, they lack subtlety.  Not really that different from dipping or washing.

I have never used the dip method so I can't comment on it. I have made extensive use of washes in my old painting technique and using speedpaints get different results since the 'dark' part of the wash doesn't really get to any other parts of the mini.

I can't physically paint like that because of the condition of my hands but if my hands were better I would still actually use speedpaints but only against a solid white (or off-white) prime and as a base coat.

There is currently no way I could 10-20 model units.

The next set of minis I do will have a solid white prime as an experiment. I am beginning to think that doing a zenithal prime is really only something you can do with an airbrush to have more control over the process.

[Ben Waterhouse]

Brush coating is the best priming method i have found in some fifty years of painting. Never have bubbles, or loss of detail from puddling of too much paint and you can even prime with lighter colored blocks or swathes where you expect it, while black or dark browns for the crevices, and you can do it indoors in any weather or season.  I use slightly watered down to standard acrylics for all my priming.  It doesn’t have any toxic propellants to breathe in or that deplete the ozone layer and overspray never gets on any of SWMBO’s garden plants or pavement.  It literally takes seconds per fig, probably less total time than setting up the priming station, arranging the figs and shaking up the rattle can for spraying.   It’s just so much more convenient and efficient. 

The only downside has been when i encounter a rather oily resin or 3d printed figure and find the water based paint won’t spread or adhere, but even then i discover it with less hassle than a spray primer might have.

How do you stop the bubbles?

[Aethelflaeda was framed]

tap them with the brush, it usually does the trick.

[HerbertTarkel]

I never found zenithal priming to be worth the effort as a technique. Light sources from on high may not even be appropriate for many figs, when does a vampire get out into a high noon? I prefer a grisaille approach of working dark to light by building up in the color by brush with absolute control over placement rather than relying on luck and gravity.

I also don’t buy any of these newfangeled (and expensive…)speed paints or contrast paints other than a couple of times by accident.

It seems to me a lot of the new techniques are really that much faster, or if they are, they lack subtlety.  Not really that different from dipping or washing.

I tend to agree. My uses of contrast paints has been very “meh”, with the occasional random, “hey, that was cool” result. They are absolutely not a substitute for painting, for me. They aren’t even consistent in how they go on: some are nearly solid, some are so transparent as to be near worthless. I’ve had some experiments with mixing them to get colours and thinning to reduce the opacity, but overall - MORE WORK.


I’ll stand by tried and true painting techniques.

The dip: I painted two armies a long time ago using the Army Painter tin style. One, a Skaven army, was insanely fast. I brushed on the dip, and got a tournament army ready in under a month. It looked pretty good. The other was a massive Naps French army for Leipzig 1813. Again, I could build, block paint, brush dip, dullcoat a regiment a weekend. Looked pretty good, from 3 feet.

The cost of the dip itself was prohibitive in the end, and I felt like it was too production line for me.

[pixelgeek]

I tend to agree. My uses of contrast paints has been very “meh”, with the occasional random, “hey, that was cool” result.

Contrast paints are infamous for the inconsistency across the paint range. Some are thin, some are thicker. The opacity isn't consistent and either is the tint you achieve. I wouldn't use Contrast paints at all.

Xpress colours are a bit better but the colours are a bit odd. The Army Painter Speedpaints (second version) are pretty consistent across the entire range (I have noticed some issues with the skin tones) and you can even mix them together just like acrylics to get new colours. They also work well as shades and can be blended quite easily

[Ultravanillasmurf]

Back to seasonal priming.
I find the main issue is available light to spray outside, by late September it is getting darker so do not have the opportunity to spray.

I have used rattle cans since the first GW LOTR came out, previously used the various brush primers (I was late to Acrylics having used Humbrol enamels).

[zemjw]

I find the main issue is available light to spray outside, by late September it is getting darker so do not have the opportunity to spray.

I spray in my loft, so light is always a problem. I bought a simple head-torch from Amazon, which does the job. If I need to check something, I just look at it and the light follows

I've tried regular torches and lanterns in the past, but they always needed an extra hand, which the head-torch doesn't.

[Aethelflaeda was framed]

Loft

What about your air quality?  Aerosol paint indoors has always been a disaster.

[zemjw]

Loft

What about your air quality?  Aerosol paint indoors has always been a disaster.

It's not too bad, but there is most definitely a respirator involved, as I am quite fond of my lungs Everything in the loft has a black dusting on it, including the insulation, but spraying outside would just cover different areas.

The biggest pain is that the smell can leak downstairs for a bit. However, I close the doors to the rooms I need to, and open the door to the bathroom.

The worst one was Mr Surfacer, which stunk out the house for several days. I normally use Humbrol spray primers, and they've not been too bad.