Author Topic: Foam Boards (Read 6940 times)

Ssendam · « **on:** March 10, 2011, 11:23:55 AM »

Hi All,

A quick question about using Foam Core to build various structures ...

I'm currently building terrain for a sci-fi Necromunda/Urban War/Chain Reaction/Unbridled Fury type game, (no I havn't decided on the rules yet

). I have designed some templates in illustrator to allow me to build a modular rectangular building, with stairs, very easily. I'll make the templates available here in due course in case anyone can find a use for them, but need to pull together an instruction sheet and put in a .pdf.

I think I have a pretty robust design which can easily give you a multi story building in a number of configurations including ruins, so all good there ...

However, I'm just wondering how people who work with Foam Core deal with the areas of exposed Foam on a model? On the outside edges I'm cutting my joins back to the card and not all the way through. That way the outside card on one side covers the edge of the piece it is next to. Places of exposed Foam are the top edges and inside the window frames.

I know the Foam can be sensitive to sprays and some paints but also it had a different texture.

Possible treatments could be:

- Leave: When painted it won't make a difference.
- Glue thin card over the top: will take a while though.
- PVA Glue the exposed surfaces prior to painting.

I do have a Aerosol of Textured Paint I would like to use, but I know it will melt the Foam.

Any thoughts?

Jules · « **Reply #1 on:** March 10, 2011, 11:49:39 AM »

If its a wreck I leave the edge alone.
Otherwise I have used two approaches if the edges don't matter I use pva to seal the edge before spraying. Otherwise I use thin strips of card edging to fill the space and glue with PVA obviously the later is long winded and fiddly.

Benny · « **Reply #2 on:** March 10, 2011, 12:03:29 PM »

I agree with Jules on the sealing. Just to add one thing to his post, leaving the broken or damaged bits of wall untreated will make them dissolve to certain paints, but this usually makes the wall look more like a broken will than some cut up foam core in my opinion.

Froggy the Great · « **Reply #3 on:** March 10, 2011, 01:06:05 PM »

Also if you use an enamel-based spray like Testor's or (I think) Model Master, it won't melt the foam. Do a test spray first, however. I don't want to be responsible for the dissolution of your project.

Glitzer · « **Reply #4 on:** March 10, 2011, 02:17:42 PM »

I usually use Dupli Color acryllic sprays. They have a series that's working well with Styropor and other foamed polystyrenes (it's easy o find, there's somehing like "Usable with Styropor" written on the spray can). I usually use pure foam boards (those without cardboard) instead of foamcore for walls and it works well with those.

Doomsdave · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2011, 03:00:57 PM »

Quote from: Froggy the Great on March 10, 2011, 01:06:05 PM

Also if you use an enamel-based spray like Testor's or (I think) Model Master, it won't melt the foam. Do a test spray first, however. I don't want to be responsible for the dissolution of your project.

Yes. Testors works on foam without melting. I use Testors flat black to basecoat mine as I'm too lazy for coating with PVA or brushing on paint.

Ssendam · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2011, 03:05:42 PM »

Thanks for the responses ...

I have also tried a method of using filler, (the fine stuff for walls) on the edges and that seemed to work well for painting, (but not tried it for using a spray).

AKULA · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2011, 03:06:59 PM »

was about to suggest using polyfiller, as that is what I've used on the Battlefield terrain.

Dewbakuk · « **Reply #8 on:** March 10, 2011, 04:29:18 PM »

Are you going to texture the surface? If so then you can just put thin masking tape over the edges, very quick and easy.

Ssendam · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2011, 07:07:57 PM »

It's basic, but this is how it looks so far ...

Sangennaru · « **Reply #10 on:** March 10, 2011, 07:09:00 PM »

very good indeed!

what are you planning to use for the window's frames?

D@rth J@ymZ · « **Reply #11 on:** March 10, 2011, 07:20:55 PM »

Looks good so far. Ah, I wish I had the patience to start and finish larger projects like terrain and buildings. Mine never seem to get finished if they end up larger than what would fit on a CD template...

Commander Vyper · « **Reply #12 on:** March 10, 2011, 08:36:18 PM »

Nice start, for the edges either as already said, filler, card strip or if your using that black foamcore, you can remove the foam leaving the card edge on one side. You could then make joints so you end up with a card to card edge if you see what I mean.

Me, I just print the worldworks stuff out and get gluing. Any buildings that are more built than preprint, I use thinned coving adhesive, (wall filler would do fine) gives a fine but not too overally textured effect.

Good luck

The Commander

Antenociti · « **Reply #13 on:** March 11, 2011, 12:53:25 PM »

Quote from: Ssendam on March 10, 2011, 11:23:55 AM

However, I'm just wondering how people who work with Foam Core deal with the areas of exposed Foam on a model?
Any thoughts?

http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/news/2010/11/how-to-join-foamboard/

That should help you out a bit

Better way though is to use Foamed-PVC, stronger, durable, takes any spray paint and doesnt leave any edges.

Ssendam · « **Reply #14 on:** March 11, 2011, 01:39:50 PM »

I used a Rabbet Joint for the side walls, and that works really well; it's just the other exposed areas like the window frames.

I've had an additional thought that if I put a nice thick coat of paint on, (I'm using some standard vinyl emulsion), it will seal up any exposed foam.

Foamed-PVC ... not heard of that before.

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Author Topic: Foam Boards (Read 6940 times)

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