Author Topic: Fastpaint method, based on inks (Read 25149 times)

Mr. Peabody · « **Reply #30 on:** 26 March 2009, 03:40:55 PM »

Got it; that's sound advice. I think the lovely Violet shading coat chosen for the example set my mind 'wandering' with the possibilities for contrasts.

Thanks for this. Lead Adventure is such an excellent resource & community.

Aaron · « **Reply #31 on:** 26 March 2009, 04:53:00 PM »

Quote from: Mr. Peabody on 26 March 2009, 03:40:55 PM

Violet

That sparked another possible base shade for you, VMC Brown Violet. Odd name for a color, but I find it very useful.

Mr. Peabody · « **Reply #32 on:** 27 March 2009, 04:50:31 PM »

Thanks for that. Taking a quick peek with colour match over at silicon dragons the brown violet does seem like a fine starting point. I'll pick some up at my favourite LHS next time I visit and see what brown violet looks like in real life.

Skrapwelder · « **Reply #33 on:** 29 March 2009, 04:51:09 PM »

Thanks for the great tips. I gave this a shot over the last few days. My figures were primed black and then dryibrushed with a Reaper paints Ivory. I've got a couple of pics:

Comparison shot. Figure on the left was fast painted.

This whole group was fast painted in an afternoon. I put a sepia wash over the whole figure after painting to get them to match the other half of the unit that was dipped.

Dipped sailors

warrenss2 · « **Reply #34 on:** 14 September 2009, 11:15:34 AM »

Making this one sticky for a bit. geudens, would you mind putting that in a PDF so we can upload it as an article?

Did this ever get uploaded as a PDF article? If so, where can I get it?

Mr. Peabody · « **Reply #35 on:** 14 September 2009, 06:03:08 PM »

Yes please, a nice PDF would be lovely...

warrenss2 · « **Reply #36 on:** 15 September 2009, 12:56:37 AM »

I have taken the liberty of making Geudens first post about his methods of speed painting into a PDF for personal use.

Geudens, if this offends you please let me know... I will delete it.

I would LOVE to see a PDF of your methods by your hand... made idiot-proof and taking us noobies baby step by baby step through the process start to finish.

Geudens · « **Reply #37 on:** 15 September 2009, 09:43:28 AM »

Quote from: warrenss2 on 15 September 2009, 12:56:37 AM

I have taken the liberty of making Geudens first post about his methods of speed painting into a PDF for personal use.
Geudens, if this offends you please let me know... I will delete it.
I would LOVE to see a PDF of your methods by your hand... made idiot-proof and taking us noobies baby step by baby step through the process start to finish.

No problem with the PDF, that's why I posted the stuff in the first place. Anyone wanting to do the same is welcome to it. All that was to be said at the time is in my first posting. A possible update would be that the excellent "shades" by both GW & Vallejo (cheaper, but less tones) could be added as a finishing touch.

Rudi

Rudi

abelp01 · « **Reply #38 on:** 12 September 2010, 03:14:04 PM »

I want to try this method with my Wargames Factory Saxons, any chance of getting a copy of this PDF?

Thanks!
Abel

warrenss2 · « **Reply #39 on:** 01 December 2010, 02:45:10 AM »

BIG BUMP!!

Hey, Rudi.

Is there anyway you could type this up into an idiot-proof (Warren-proof) tutorial? What colors did you use? Where you got those colors? Step by step guide from start to finish that would baby-walk us through it all?

I just want to have a VERY good understanding of it all before I try it out.

Thanks!
Warren

adlerhobby · « **Reply #40 on:** 28 December 2010, 02:14:36 AM »

Quote from: warrenss2 on 01 December 2010, 02:45:10 AM

BIG BUMP!!

Hey, Rudi.

Is there anyway you could type this up into an idiot-proof (Warren-proof) tutorial? What colors did you use? Where you got those colors? Step by step guide from start to finish that would baby-walk us through it all?

I just want to have a VERY good understanding of it all before I try it out.

Thanks!
Warren

Yes very interested in seeing more on this topic from anyone willing to share Thanks

Doug ex-em4 · « **Reply #41 on:** 19 February 2011, 11:47:17 AM »

Quote from: warrenss2 on 01 December 2010, 02:45:10 AM

Is there anyway you could type this up into an idiot-proof (Warren-proof) tutorial? What colors did you use? Where you got those colors? Step by step guide from start to finish that would baby-walk us through it all?

Agreed - it's how you get from "the faces with one stroke..." stage to the "finished product" stage I'd like to see more of if possible.

Doug

Legion1963 · « **Reply #42 on:** 03 December 2012, 09:31:05 PM »

Quote from: Geudens on 28 May 2008, 08:40:46 AM

The method (developped by Johan - also of this forum - and myself) is based (mostly) on the use of inks and reversing the usual paint process. First the model is undercoated (grey) and then the undercoat is "inked" with either ink or a thinned acrylic of a darker tone than the prevaling color of the figure (or model). The darker the colour chosen, the harder the contrast. This may range from medium brown to dark khaki, violet to black.

You might also undercoat in black, if you really, really like heavy contrasts or if you are painting figures in full blank metal armour (you can then drybrush the metal on the black primer, but that's a well known thing).

Next, the whole figure is drybrushed in an ivory shade (not in white!). Do this carefully and evenly: it will determine the quality of your highlights and shades!

The figure is then inked with either ink or paint thinned down to "ink" with Valejo acrylic thinner, creating an instant and automatic shade (even for hands and faces). With some inks, you might need two layers or otherwise enrich the ink with a (tiny!) drop of the matching acrylic colour.

With figures, a little highlighting and detailing (metal parts) ends the job. But, since the surface of vehicles is much larger than that of a figure, it is very thinly washed with at matching ink after the highlighting (to "blend" all layers) and then again highlighted with the lightest colour used (but only very slightly, to bring out details). E.G.

http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=5996.0

This walker was thinly washed with W&N yellow ochre to blend the layers.

After some practice, you can reduce your painting time with 50% or more (the less colours involved, the greater the time gain).

Make sure that the inks you use are water resistant! This is my pallet:
Winsor & Newton Calligraphic inks
GW inks
Vallejo inks
FW Acrylic Water-Resistant Artists Ink (30 colors, including light grey!)
Acrylic paints from Coat d'arms & Vallejo (but others might do just as well).
I have at least six brown inks of different manufacturers, but they all vary in colour, so it's well worth investing in these.

First "inking" on the grey undercoat (using cheap acrylic hobby paint):

Highlighting with ivory (using cheap acrylic hobby paint):

Finishing the faces with one stroke of (thinned down) flesh ink:

The finished product (apart from gun metal, only inks were used):

These figures took about than 15 minutes to paint in batches of 8 (allowing time to dry, but if I'm pressed for time, I dry them in my kitchen oven at 50°C (even plastics)). The system won't make you win painting contests, but will create armies.

Rudi