Cave Wars table + game for BLAM. P.35 - Giant Apes!

[Dr DeAth]

Splendid Stuff!

[Silent Invader]

Splendid indeed! 

[kidterminal]

Looks fantastic though I would think it might have been easier to apply the flock last so you can match everything at once? The registry holes for the lid seems like a good idea.

[Captain Blood]

Could I suggest that you add a couple of holes lined up with each other between levels.
A small dowel peg or two should help keep things together when a clumsy numpty comes along and nudges it, revealing all before time.
Holes with a dowel would also not stop you from removing them so that you can slide it back and forth unimpeded if you just remove the dowel.
 

I shall consider your suggestion Paul. It make sense

Looks fantastic though I would think it might have been easier to apply the flock last so you can match everything at once?

Fear not. I have now mixed up an industrial sized box of the correct mix of flock, so it will all match in perfectly.

[Argonor]

(because the hot wire cutter can't get into those sorts of angles).

If you get one like this, you should be able to shape the wire to make deep cuts (Danish website, sorry, but it is a German brand):

http://dorchdanola-netbutik.dk/product/proxxon-gloedesav-thermocut-12e-4201/

[kidterminal]

Fear not. I have now mixed up an industrial sized box of the correct mix of flock, so it will all match in perfectly.

Fears quelled.

[Elk101]

You could always put magnets on the lid base to hold it in place.

The whole thing looks fantastic Richard. You really do practice what you preach in regards to quality terrain boards. Lovely work.

[Westfalia Chris]

If you get one like this, you should be able to shape the wire to make deep cuts (Danish website, sorry, but it is a German brand):

http://dorchdanola-netbutik.dk/product/proxxon-gloedesav-thermocut-12e-4201/

Word of warning on that one, though - it's a bit pricey (you need a separate power transformer unit) and isn't all that robust. I've got one and found it to be unsuited for making precise cuts through anything thicker than 20mm, since the positionable arm tends to come loose, twisting the wire out of control.

Not much of an issue for irregular shapes, but I considered it a disappointment given the price. A simple hot knife might have been a better choice for my requirements, but I fell for the "Proxxon quality" angle.

[Silent Invader]

To pin the lid to the layer below, you could always have a couple of trees with really long 'trunks' (more correctly, tap roots) that push into receiver tubes set into both layers.

[Elk101]

To pin the lid to the layer below, you could always have a couple of trees with really long 'trunks' (more correctly, tap roots) that push into receiver tubes set into both layers.

That's a very good idea.

[Captain Blood]

By the time the lid has been fully textured it will have a fair amount of plaster, sand, grit, stone, paint and PVA overlaid on the lightweight styrofoam base. It will weigh quite a bit and I think it will take a pretty determined attempt to accidentally knock it off - but thank you for all your ingenious suggestions anyway. I shall see how it hangs together once it's all done and decide if it needs some form of fixing to hold it in place

It does, obviously, need to be Crazy Viking-proof   

[Captain Blood]

A small update... Works are nearing completion... I nearly said light at the end of the tunnel - but there won't be any. Well, not unless the enterprising cave people can make fire. Otherwise they'll be in the dark... 

First of all, the hillocks on top of the 'lid' are rounded out and blended in using wall filler.



Then, once dry, the whole assembly is given a coat of 'gloop' (PVA / paint / sand / fine grit mix)
Various rocky outcrops are added on the heights (using real bits of slate, surrounded by a sprinkling of 'talus' - model railway rocky stuff).
Scree slopes and pathways have more fine grit sprinkled along.
And finally, whilst still wet, a dusting of sand is added as a surface dressing for a bit of extra texture.
In reality, most of the ground surface will be covered in grass and other vegetation, but patches of bare ground will be left exposed, so the more texture the better.







Once this has dried out and set hard it will be ready for painting and then titivation... 

[OSHIROmodels]

Very promising 

It's always best to go to town from the ground up (excuse the pun) as it all adds to the overall effect.

It does, obviously, need to be Crazy Viking-proof   

Velcro 

cheers

James

[Dr. The Viking]

It does, obviously, need to be Crazy Viking-proof   

Hey!

I saw that! 


Looking fantastique so far!

[Mason]

Now we are getting there, sir.
 

It's always best to go to town from the ground up (excuse the pun) as it all adds to the overall effect.

Agreed.
Especially if an stuff was to be worn away during use.


Crazy Viking proof.....?

No such thing!