Author Topic: Junktown Scrapyard Crew - Update - Muthaship Supplies (Read 308424 times)

clanmac · « **Reply #465 on:** 03 January 2018, 07:04:03 PM »

Quote from: Exiledadmiral on 03 January 2018, 06:37:33 PM

Great tutorial, think I've heard hairspray used for rust effects before but now I finally understand the method! Is the brown car primer significantly cheaper than miniature primers?

It's about £5 for a can, which goes a fairly long way as they are quite large by comparison with your average tin of Humbrol. I'd probably use it anyway though because the colours work so well. Link below.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/272629294993?chn=ps&adgroupid=48657126936&rlsatarget=pla-382144911508&abcId=1129916&adtype=pla&merchantid=101725210&poi=&googleloc=1006641&device=c&campaignid=973710387&crdt=0

I tend to do a full coat of this stuff and then a very light overspray of black.

carlos marighela · « **Reply #466 on:** 04 January 2018, 12:20:38 AM »

Nice tutorial but an aluminium skinned helicopter is probably not the best exemplar of rust techniques, save for the engine components and gun tubes. Even the internal spars were aluminium. The rotor blades, rotor head and internal armoured tub were made out of titanium and whilst titanium does corrode it doesn't really look like typical ferrous rust.

clanmac · « **Reply #467 on:** 04 January 2018, 02:28:05 AM »

Quote from: carlos marighela on 04 January 2018, 12:20:38 AM

Nice tutorial but an aluminium skinned helicopter is probably not the best exemplar of rust techniques, save for the engine components and gun tubes. Even the internal spars were aluminium. The rotor blades, rotor head and internal armoured tub were made out of titanium and whilst titanium does corrode it doesn't really look like typical ferrous rust.

Yeah, I know, but I tried aluminium weathering on a Dakota (below) and it just wasn’t close to being as satisfying, so ever since I’ve rusted all my planes and science be damned. I’m pushing artistic licence on this one.

tomrommel1 · « **Reply #468 on:** 04 January 2018, 08:59:32 AM »

nice tutorial indeed

DintheDin · « **Reply #469 on:** 04 January 2018, 09:53:03 AM »

Quote from: clanmac on 04 January 2018, 02:28:05 AM

I’m pushing artistic licence on this one.

Your technique gives a very realistic scrapyard! Well done!

Constable Bertrand · « **Reply #470 on:** 04 January 2018, 10:14:28 AM »

Clanmac you legend! Your patience, endurance and persistence have been noted for the 2018 hobby award

Blooming great mate!

Cheers
Matt

eilif · « **Reply #471 on:** 04 January 2018, 11:11:43 PM »

Quote from: Exiledadmiral on 03 January 2018, 06:37:33 PM

Great tutorial, think I've heard hairspray used for rust effects before but now I finally understand the method! Is the brown car primer significantly cheaper than miniature primers?

I'm not in the UK, but here in the States, you can generally get twice as much spray paint (or more) for half the price of model spray paint cans. That is to say about 4x more for your money. Camo colors, primers in grey white and rudy brown, etc are all avaialble for about $4 a can and you can often find store brand black and white for a buck a can.

ichwillauch · « **Reply #472 on:** 05 January 2018, 06:23:29 AM »

Great tutorial indeed and fantastic results

Ajax · « **Reply #473 on:** 05 January 2018, 12:40:18 PM »

Absolutly fantastic topic !

Brummie Thug · « **Reply #474 on:** 05 January 2018, 07:49:27 PM »

It all looks amazing. What a brilliant bunch of postings. The lighting is great it is super atmospheric. I really must have a crack at adding some to my terrain.

Admiral Benbow · « **Reply #475 on:** 05 January 2018, 09:06:10 PM »

Great tutorial again, clanmac, thanks for that. I'm just wondering, when you block in the main colours after hairspray treatment, are you using water based paint? Will they not immediately dissolve the hairspray? Or ar you using solvent ones like Humbrol?

clanmac · « **Reply #476 on:** 05 January 2018, 09:46:50 PM »

Quote from: Admiral Benbow on 05 January 2018, 09:06:10 PM

Great tutorial again, clanmac, thanks for that. I'm just wondering, when you block in the main colours after hairspray treatment, are you using water based paint? Will they not immediately dissolve the hairspray? Or ar you using solvent ones like Humbrol?

I'm using Acrylics so in theory they do have a go at the hairspray, but it doesn't seem to cause an issue. I tend not to dwell on that paint job or over-brush too much. I just slop it on, so maybe it doesn't get time to work before it dries. Ironically the real challenge comes with the next stage of the process (photos coming soon - almost done) when I apply an oil based wash and it can attack the original undercoat when it shows through if I work it too hard.

Exiledadmiral · « **Reply #477 on:** 06 January 2018, 12:51:59 PM »

Thanks for the link clanmac! I'll have a look at that primer for the scenery I never get round to painting, might make it easier to get started.

clanmac · « **Reply #478 on:** 06 January 2018, 10:53:36 PM »

So, eventually we get to the next stages - the joy of having a weekend with not many commitments.

To recap, I'd got to a post-hairspray and salt stage, where some rust was showing through the paint job. What we now need to do is blend the colours a little better, get some dirt and grit into the various rusty holes and have some rust streaks. First I need to add any decals and in the case of the Hind I need to add the Junktown sign. For decals I tend to put them on then varnish over the top of them. If I don't, the next stages get under the decals.

Oh, and for uti long smile, keep an eye out for your Crooked Dice cctv cameras

.

You'll notice everything is still looking a bit 'bright' so the next stage is to cover the whole model in a wash - I use MiG Brown wash for this.
Leaves everything looking gritty and mucky.

Once the wash has had the chance to dry I then start to strip it off again, leaving it in recesses. it also nicely hangs around the 'pock marks' left by the salt. I remove it by running a thinner-damped brush over it and then wiping it on a tissue. This is the bit where you need to be careful where the undercoat comes through. it won't harm the acrylic top coat but it can lift the undercoat if you brush too hard. The best thing about this technique is that it lifts the underlying colour back to it's original, but leaves a dirty film around the edges, so you don't get that overall 'dulling down of colour' you can get with some washes or with things like quick shade.

The time to add rust streaks, which add another welcome dash of colour. I use these.

Apply a small streak running from a rust patch and then extend it and blend it in with a wet brush. So you get...

I also tend to throw a coat of matt varnish on the inside of any glass to give it that grimy and uncared for look. It also makes light look better if I add interior lighting - which I hope to on this one.

And lastly I use weathering powder to add that very matt gritty rust to the brown rust-coloured panels and around things like bolts and supports.

Gratuitous roof shoot

And that's it pretty much done. I'm still learning and playing, particularly with the oils but I think I've got a rhythm now.

I need to finish the other bits and bring the whole gate together but as a taster , here are a few of the other bits, also demonstrating the technique.

Defence Turret