Stormcast Eternals - Caution: OTT Minis

[Ray Rivers]

Hi!

So, I bought the Age of Sigmar starter set and paint set and have been working quite steadily on them. Unfortunately, I am very busy this time of year, so progress has been quite slow.

I am using the GW Painting Tutorial as my basic guide:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=65&v=X_Y61xmylas

So at this point I'm working only on the 10 Liberators. As a note, while the minis are quite easy to put together there was some problems with flash and join points. This is especially true on the Liberators as the join is right in the middle of the shoulder pad. Take a look:



I just used my scapel to smooth the joins and it did a respectable job.

As you can see, I have added rocks to the bases. I also added my basing material and then base primed all the models with GW Chaos Black.

Once the models were primed, I painted all the armor with Retibutor Armour and then doused them with Reikland Fleshshade. I must admit I haven't used GW paints in a looong time, and was very impressed with both the color of Retributor armor and and effect Reikland fleshshade had on them.

I then repainted the armor with Retributor Armor. In the tutorial Duncan recommends Auric Armour Gold, but I didn't want my Eternals to have a really intense Gold color so I stuck with Retirbutor Armor color. I then cleaned the models up a bit using Abaddon Black and then highlighted the armor with Liberator Gold.

In this photo you can see on the right the result after painting the miniature with Retributor Gold and Reikland Fleshshade. On the left you see the point I'm at now... repainting with Retributor Gold and adding the Liberator Gold highlight.



Not the greatest job, I admit, but I am having great fun painting these miniatures. They are, BTW, the first fantasy miniatures I have every bought and painted.

It will take a while to get all ten miniatures up to snuff and press on so it might be awhile before I have a photo update.

Cheers all!

[Mason]

An easy way to deal with those joins is to use liquid poly to stick them together and then use the brush applicator with a coating of the poly and brush it away.
It make take a few passes with the brush but it will work.
 

[OSHIROmodels]

That gold looks the biz 

cheers

James

[Ray Rivers]

Thanks for the tip mason... I don't paint many plastics.

Having said that, the shoulder pad also in some cases was a bit mal formed. So I used the opportunity to also "round" them out nicely with my scalpel.

[Captain Blood]

Not my thing, Ray, but they look splendid. Great job on the painting. The golds (both before and after) are pretty spectacular 
I'm on the last knockings of my old GW 'Shining Gold' (things were so much simpler then ) - for the best general purpose gold, which would you recommend?

[Ray Rivers]

I think I would go with the Auric Armour Gold for a true gold look. The Retributor Armor has a slight addition of orange to give it almost a bronzy kinda look and the Liberator Gold is meant to be a highlight and thus doesn't have a true gold look.

I was quite impressed with the smoothness of GW's metallic paint. Goes on real nice and is easy to control.

[Westfalia Chris]

Not my thing, Ray, but they look splendid. Great job on the painting. The golds (both before and after) are pretty spectacular  
I'm on the last knockings of my old GW 'Shining Gold' (things were so much simpler then ) - for the best general purpose gold, which would you recommend?

If I might make a suggestion, I am extremely fond of using a base of Vallejo Game Color "Brassy Brass", followed by a thin sepia wash shading and a VGC "Bright Brass" highlight. I'm not too fond of their actual gold tones, the VMC ones in particular being rather tricky.

Seeing the above, though, I may need to reconsider my stance on GW paints. This has a very nice reddish tinge to it which might be interesting to use on some heavy-armoured dwarves.

[Argonor]

I'm on the last knockings of my old GW 'Shining Gold' (things were so much simpler then ) - for the best general purpose gold, which would you recommend?

If I might make a suggestion, I am extremely fond of using a base of Vallejo Game Color "Brassy Brass", followed by a thin sepia wash shading and a VGC "Bright Brass" highlight. I'm not too fond of their actual gold tones, the VMC ones in particular being rather tricky.

I am very fond of the VGC Polished Gold, which I use for all 'gold' work, and I have only put off buying some more VGC metallics because I didn't really need them, but it is interesting if the GW metallics have become better, as they are more easily accessible around here.

[matthais-mouse]

A word of warning, I bought the chap on the dragon thingy and have to admit putting him together was a NIGHTMARE. So be warned haha...

Looking good though paint wise so far matey

[Ray Rivers]

A word of warning, I bought the chap on the dragon thingy and have to admit putting him together was a NIGHTMARE. So be warned haha...

Yep, have heard the same from others. Think I'll save him for last. 

[Ray Rivers]

That gold looks the biz 

cheers

James

Thanks James!

Gracious as always. 

[Major_Gilbear]

@ Ray Rivers:

Looks nice and sharp!

If you find that you want to improve the contrast and highlight up to a near-silver at the very edges, you can always re-apply a little thinned Reikland to "bring back" the warmer tones and darken the recess a touch more.

For those shoulders, I might suggest a little yellow-grey Milliput for the gaps. Very cheap, and it's a bit like clay when you mix it - you even smooth it with water. Once cured, you can rub it down with an emery board for a perfect finish. To be honest, if you smooth it down neatly in the first place, you can probably skip rubbing it down later.

Milliput's pretty good fo making bases too. Flatten out some of the mix on a plastic bag, and let it cure. When cured, break it up with some pliers or clippers to get excellent rocky-looking bits for your bases. These are easy to glue, not as heavy as using stones, and you can drill through them if you need to pin your models to the base.

Anyway I look forward to seeing the next installment of your results!


@ Captain Blood:

Have a look at the P3 paints perhaps? I like Brass Balls for a good general-purpose gold. There's also Solid Gold which is a bit more orangey, and Blighted Gold which is like the old Tin Bitz but with a little green tint to it - adding a spot of this to the golds gives you a nice shading tone that's not too orange.

Aside from that, the Vallejo Air metals are very smooth and bright (even if you're going to brush them on with a traditional hairy stick). Might be worth trying one gold out to see what you think?

[Duncan McDane]

Yes,
the gold colouring on the miniatures looks pretty spectaculair. I'll have some GW paints ( 3.30 euro each at our new GW-store  ) and check it out for myself.

[Ray Rivers]

Have you seen this?

http://www.lounge.belloflostsouls.net/showthread.php?58390-Age-of-Sigmar-Products-8-22-2015

 

[Dr. Kevin Moon III esq.]

He looks great, a really nice smooth gold.

Keep posting the rest as they get done!