FIW: UD 13/5 More Warlord plastic conversions & a skiff

[Silent Invader]

Thank you Manatic  

Anyways, to ease anxieties ( ), here's the water some 24 hours later:



It's still got a bit of uncured white in it in places but all seems headed in the right direction. There is a slightly different colour between river and bay from directly overhead but I don't want to add more to the depth of product (and I rarely take overhead shots so it doesn't really matter anyway).

Here's the residual glue dried in the pot, showing the effect of 28 drops of Vallejo Air Mud Brown to 28ml of the glue. Also, the dried glue peeled from the pot, in case of interest.





A bonus is that applying this layer of the glue over the silicone sealant waves and white tops has actually improved their appearance:



Nb: when I've finished, I will update the technique as recorded in the PLog.

[Malamute]

Looks great Matey.

[Charlie_]

Looks great!

Is this glue the same consistency as PVA?
Did you 'pour' it like most water modelling effects, and if so did it naturally flow to where it was needed?
What about the surface? It is 'flat' or not, and did you have to do anything to it to get natural looking ripples and waves? I imagine you want a fast-flowing river look rather than still water.

I'm asking all these questions because I am weighing up options for when I do my own rivers someday soon.

[Romark]

Thank you Manatic  

Anyways, to ease anxieties ( ), here's the water some 24 hours adventure.de/gallery/27/2031_22_01_17_1_19_24_2.JPG[/
  that's a relief,can rest easy now 
Seriously Steve I now think it's looking even better ,great work 




Nb: when I've finished, I will update the technique as recorded in the PLog.

[Codsticker]

Bit of heavy rain lately... creek is silted-up.

[Silent Invader]

Thanks Nick and Keith.  

Charlie, I'll answer the specific questions within the quote but I just wanted to add:
1) I'm not recommending anyone else use this glue or technique, I'm just communicating what I do
2) I do recommend that before anyone else that chooses to do so tries it, they get a small pot and practise, experiment, familiarise, etc
3) I've been using this stuff for a couple of years but I have no idea whether it will discolour or break up with age (though given it's intended use, seems unlikely)

Is this glue the same consistency as PVA?

= No. It's much thicker, probably due to a lower water content; it dries much quicker than PVA and when cured is waterproof (so unlike PVA it cannot be re-wetted).

Did you 'pour' it like most water modelling effects, and if so did it naturally flow to where it was needed?

= As it has a thicker consistency it does not flow like PVA. The deeper the pour the more readily it will flow but it's quite 'clingy'  to itself and to whatever it contacts (for example, a deeper pour might flow up to rocks but not between the rocks). I usually move it around with a brush, though with deeper pours I also vibrate the tile to release bubbles and level the surface.

What about the surface? It is 'flat' or not, and did you have to do anything to it to get natural looking ripples and waves? I imagine you want a fast-flowing river look rather than still water.

= See also previous answer, where vibrating the tile will enable a reasonably flat surface. That said, this stuff contracts by I'd guess 50% so where it touches the bank it will cure with a curve upwards. The curve can be 'filled' by adding another layer. Shallower layers can be brushed into position and due to its clingy nature will create waves and other turbulence. It can be teased as it cures for more dramatic waves but I've found it easier to create these  with silicone sealant (see image above) especially as you can get contrasting white within the water.

[Silent Invader]

Bit of heavy rain lately... creek is silted-up.

It's The North, it's always raining

It's not silted up, it's peat-stained

[Codsticker]

Ah, I see. Here on the west of NA not much peat but quite a bit of silt.

[Silent Invader]

Ah, I see. Here on the west of NA not much peat but quite a bit of silt.

That I understand.  The terrain is just generic Temperate mostly for The North (as in Games of Thrones)  ..... so it doesn't so much specifically portray Colonial Virginia, New England, New York State or wherever but anywhere that will just about suit any of my similarly-set projects, such as Bodmin Moor in Cornwall, UK.

Cheating I know. But I can call it silt if that suits the FIW narrative! 

[Vagabond]

Well I was waiting to see the water poured and then I missed it.

It's looking very good, I am surprised by is contraction rate seems very high but maybe that's what gives it a good bond as glue.

You talk about silicone waves - are you using white bathroom sealant I've always found the stuff a b**tard to use - at least on bathrooms.

Just waiting to for you to push all the boards together to get rid of the gaps and take a picture - should be quite special as you have certainly captured a wild place, none of this manicured lawn terrain here.

Sorry to hear about dropping the figures, I expect that made you wince.

[Silent Invader]

Time to move onto the minis, which will be all plastic.

First up are the WIP Woodland Indians. All 25 are by Warlord Games, using 4 of the 6-man sprues and a single 'man in jeans and vest' from the Project Z survivors.

The survivor (who'll be the War Chief) has his arms and head from the Indian sprue. I sculpted on the shirt, gorget, powder horn, shot pouch and breachclouts.

The 24 men from the main sprue are all different. There are some athletic and aggressive poses, which I like, but the options 'as is' are also quite limiting. I made a lot of alterations, mostly requiring cutting and gluing with very little addition of GS. For example, there are no standing firing poses, for which I had to reshape shoulders and rearrange legs. All have muskets (no bows in this war band).

[Silent Invader]

Thanks Vagabond. I'm waiting for the lake to have fully dried before I push the boards together. Might be tomorrow..... but might not! 

Yep. Bathroom silicone but the good, mould resistant stuff. Spread a little on with the finger, push it into position then tease out wave crests with a cocktail stick. Be aware that cured silicone will not (normally) stick to cured silicone, so when adding white for the white tops, it needs to go on before the clear has set (but don't apply the white direct, only a little is required so transfer it on the cocktail stick). I think I only used the clear for the really rough areas, just adding a few white tops here and there for the rest of the river.

And yes, I winced when I dropped the minis. 

[rumacara]

This Project is looking very good.
That converted indian is very nice.
Watching it with great interest.

[Malamute]

Nice work on those Indians.

 I wonder whether they'll be painted in time for 5th March? 

[Silent Invader]

Thanks Chaps. 

The joy of plastic. 

I wonder whether they'll be painted in time for 5th March? 

Oooh..... that's an interesting question. Might be .....  can be .... will be ....