Newer GW inks separating

[Elbows]

I haven't tried them, but ProAcryl recently put out a couple of washes --- and people like their paints (I had a few misses, but I think they make a good product).  I've been meaning to check them out.  They've been mimicking GW's paint line, so I assume the washes would be aimed at copying Agrax, etc.

https://monumenthobbies.com/collections/washes

PS: Whoops, one of the reviews says "stains less than other washes"?

[Silent Invader]

Yeah - that's why I use the acrylic inks that are noted as being UV stable. It should be noted that translucency and light-fastness do vary by colour though (link).

That is extremely useful - thank you.

[Major_Gilbear]

What can a man who relied on the "magic in a pot" that the older incarnations of these washes provided get instead, I ask?
[...]
I sure miss Devlan Mud.

In case my earlier comment wasn't enough for you, this blog article may be of interest to you. 

That is extremely useful - thank you.

No problem! I had some difficulties myself trying to match the old GW "bolter shell" screw-top Turquoise ink, and the DR FW Acrylic ink is all I could find in the end that was a light-fast non-reactivating ink.

[Gibby]

In case my earlier comment wasn't enough for you, this blog article may be of interest to you. 

Cheers!

Interestingly, I have these washes but rarely use them! 

[Silent Invader]

Thinks to the helpful posts above I’m trying out the DR FW Acrylic Ink



The DR is perhaps a little thick so I ended up adding a few drops of water to it.

At the mo I’m painting 15 minis in similar in this colour scheme, 5 Infinity metals and 10 WotC plastics,and it will be interesting to see how highlighting goes.

I’ll try to remember to retake the images when the shade has dried.

[Major_Gilbear]

To make the DR ink behave like a wash, you need to add a little water and some matte acrylic medium to it.
Instead, if you have some (or are feeling flush/lazy) you could add some AP Wash Mixing Medium, or some Citadel Contrast Medium, which are basically pre-mixed versions of the same additives.

I also found it useful to let the DR settle out for a few weeks and then pour off the clear liquid to use - it loses a bit of colour strength, but increases transparency.

[Silent Invader]

Thanks I’ll order some of the AP that I’ll try with the next attempt.

Presumably the medium is what gives the citadel wash the ‘smoother’ coat.

[Major_Gilbear]

Yes, exactly - it's a bit like "blank" paint essentially.

I sometimes use a little bit of drying retarder too; but the Vallejo stuff is so thick, it needs to be cut in a ratio of 1:5 with water to leave it usable - and a few drops of the diluted result into your bottle of home-made wash is all you need.

The retarder helps to give the wash enough time to settle fully before it begins to dry, and that reduces incidence of tide marks. It does of course mean that the stuff takes longer to dry as well though... So I use it very sparingly as a result, since otherwise the wash takes forever to dry.

Really, it's not hard to make your own version of all these washes and Contrast paints, but you need to have a critical mass of stuff to make them with first, and you also need to note down what you mix for future reference. After that, making up a bottle is simple enough, and you can always make more.

Not as quick as just buying the paint of course, and some washes and Contrasts do have their own specific desirable properties anyway (strength of tint usually).

[Silent Invader]

Thanks again, your advice has been very helpful