New project started. 1/56 Marmon-Herrington T16

[CompanyB]

Time to start a new model.  I'm going old school on this one, until my new 3D software and a computer to use it on show up.  Plus it's fun to work in plasticard.  Can anyone guess what it is?

I'm not sure if this will be a future company B model.  I guess we'll see if folks actually want one or not.  On to the model!

DAY 1:
Here's the first days progress:
This is one of the more complex hull shapes I've had to do.  Maybe plasticard was not a good idea.  Any way, it seems to have turned out.  Not bad for 4 hours of fiddling around. The space for the turret will remain flat.  I think I'll go with magnets rather than drilling out a hole for it.




Its going to be very small, as you can see it here next to it's Cousin, and M5A1 Stuart


Next, I'll finish off the grill areas, and start the turret.

-Brent
Company B

[floating white bear]

Nice work.  Lots of odd angles and knooks and crannies. Do you make your producton moulds directly from the styrene?  It looks to be fairly thick sheet you are working with so your original will be very stong.  I look forward to the "progress" shots. Thanks, Rob.

[Westfalia Chris]

Gee! A Marmon-Herrington T-16? Aleutian Invasion, here we come!

Looks good, nice proportions. I could see this being popular with 2ACW folks.

[6milPhil]

Looks like Chris has got it. This could prove popular with the VBCW crowd too. Looking forward to watching the build.

[CompanyB]

Yep..the T16.  I'm also realizing that I need to make two, with left hand and right hand turret/hull layouts  

As far as the molds go.  Production molds are made straight from this.  The interior has supporting beams, so while hollow, it's pretty sturdy.

-Brent

[CompanyB]

DAY 2:

Roughed out the turret and started to add some of the larger detail bits.


This will be rivet heavy.  So I need to decide between drill and plug, or the resin decal versions.

[6milPhil]

Looking good. I really like the resin decal rivets, helps save sanity and all that.

[Andym]

That looks amazing!!

How are you going to make the tracks?

[Schogun]

Found this method of making rivets with a drill gauge:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/149674/thread/1166173684/My+breakthrough+for+rivet+counters---making+rivets!

I bought a gauge -- the method works!

I haven't applied any yet, but I was concerned the foil hemispheres might collapse from handling. I figure I can apply a micro-bead of superglue to a spot, then place a rivet on it. Not only will it glue the rivet but it will fill and harden the rivet from underneath.

I have also used the pre-made resin decal rivets -- they work very well.

[CompanyB]

More details added.  Next is the rivets and shoring up/trim any crooked bits and fine tune the details.

For the rivets, I've ordered the decal sheets.  The larger rivets I'll use the old tried and true "drill and insert plastic rounds" method.  But the majority will be using the decals.  I've used them on the M3A3 and Austin AC masters, and they worked quite well.

As I need to wait a bit for the decals to arrive, I'll need to tackle the tracks and running gear this week. I've already started to build out the connecting points on the hull for the tracks. Those will be finished in the next day or so.

[CompanyB]

And on go the rivets. First a quick coat of primer to unify all the parts, putty and plastic.  Then on go the decal rivets. One evenings work complete...about 40% done!

[floating white bear]

Nice work! Thanks for letting us watch the build.  Do the rivets go on in strips or do you have to place each one? (Why is beautiful so tedious?)  I am looking forward to see how you will do the tracks and suspension.  Any chance you can give us a quick tour of your mould making as well?  Thanks, Rob.

[CompanyB]

the resin rivets come on a large decal sheet.  So I cut them in a strip so I can slide them all off at once.  I usually cut a section 1 or two rivets wider than I need to, and then remove the extras after a clear coat has set.  The problem with the decals is you need to work on a small section, let dry, spray with clear, let dry, then start the next section.


Suspension is on the agenda this weekend!  As is the beginnings of the hull for a Fiat 3000.  I always like to have two models going at once...

[6milPhil]

Looking good. I really rate the decal rivets, they're much easier to use than you might think. I was dreading them but it took me less than an hour to put a couple of hundred down. Only occasionally did I need to lay down single ones to match up where two straight sections jioned, and that wasn't difficult either.

[CompanyB]

More rivets!  New decals arrived of two rivet sizes and some texture plating.  These sets seem much better than the last batch, as the decal does not fall apart when wet.  Much easier going this time around.



And a buddy joins in!


ANd first portion of the suspension is done.  And even it has rivets...ugh.  this one pieces was made with 13 tiny cut pieces of plastic sheet and tube. 4 more parts to make/add to it and it's complete and ready for the rollers.  Instead of scratch making 4 sets, I'll take the easy route and cast this one and dupe it X7 for the others and reverse side.  That way the tracks will be redundant on both sides.