Painting advice please -- and gluing

[Jennifer]

Does it make sense to practice painting metal miniatures first before attempting to paint the plastic Frostgrave soldiers box set?

I am new to painting minis, but figure I can learn quickly enough.  But I don't want to mess up the plastic miniatures.  I figured if I practiced on metal ones, and if I mess up, it'd be pretty easy to clean them and do another attempt?

If this is so, I'll just order a few metal Frostgrave wizard/apprentice sets along with the plastic soldiers and do them first.

What do ya think?

[Nooblord]

As I hinted at in your other thread I got a couple of really cheap individual historicals sprues from e-bay both for extra bits and to practise painting on some disposable bodies.

This was just as well as I hadn't fully appreciated how careful you need to be when applying plastic cement to models both not to cause an unholy mess and to make sure the glued parts don't slip and slide as the bond becomes firm.

[Jennifer]

As I hinted at in your other thread I got a couple of really cheap individual historicals sprues from e-bay both for extra bits and to practise painting on some disposable bodies.

This was just as well as I hadn't fully appreciated how careful you need to be when applying plastic cement to models both not to cause an unholy mess and to make sure the glued parts don't slip and slide as the bond becomes firm.

Can I use super glue?  So it sets quickly.  Or is it a bad idea?  What glue do you use for your figures?

[Jennifer]

As I hinted at in your other thread I got a couple of really cheap individual historicals sprues from e-bay both for extra bits and to practise painting on some disposable bodies.

Like this one.. $7 or so shipped:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRIPPING-BEAST-DARK-AGE-WARRIORS-5-MAN-SPRUE-AA3T-155-/141888555033

No one mentioned that dark age warriors would look good.. but I am thinking they might no?  THey are in cloth, which kind of matches the Frostgrave official soldiers kit more right?

[Ravendas]

Super glue, aka cyanoacrylate, is the usual thing to use on plastic and metal minis, so yes it's okay.

I've never heard of someone practicing on metals to get their skills up for a plastic mini, normally it's the other way around due to their costs But if that's what you have available, go for it!

[Jennifer]

Super glue, aka cyanoacrylate, is the usual thing to use on plastic and metal minis, so yes it's okay.

I've never heard of someone practicing on metals to get their skills up for a plastic mini, normally it's the other way around due to their costs But if that's what you have available, go for it!

My thought was I could just sit the metal figurine in mineral spirits and be good to go in short order with no damage to the mini.  I don't know how I'd clean paint off the plastic as mineral spirits would eat it.

[Nooblord]

I just use superglue on metals and resin, and plastic cement on plastic kits as that as I what I was told to do and I always do as I'm told 

The reason is presumably, err, chemistry. In addition plastic cement gives you time to get arms and other bits into the exact position you want as it sets which takes minutes.

[Ravendas]

Yeah, plastic cement is better for plastic (surprise), but super glue works just fine.

That plastic cement actually melts the plastic slightly, which when it evaporates or whatever leaves the two pieces actually 'melded' together into one piece, for a stronger bond. It also doesn't stick to your fingers, unless your fingers are plastic(?).

That is, if I'm thinking of the same 'plastic cement' as you are.

How cheap are Reaper Bones to get over in the UK? There's a ton of awesome minis for all the random creatures and monsters required for this game, and are usually less than half the price of a comparative metal mini. That, and they don't even need a primer coat to paint on them, you just need to wash them in soap and water. The main reason I'm even interested in this game is I've got all these Bones minis from their first two kickstarters, and even more on the way from their third. I've been practicing my painting on them, because I have hundreds and they each only cost me a buck or two, so if I screw something up I'm not too bummed

[Philhelm]

I only use plastic cement for plastic models, and find that the bond is stronger than even super glue, since, as explained above, the plastic melts.  Don't use the old model glue that results in a "cob web" of stickiness.  There are glues that are thinner and have a long, narrow dispenser so that you can be more accurate with your gluing.

[Daniel36]

I find metal miniatures to be easier to paint and more fun to paint. They have more fun little details than the plastic models, which make the more interesting, and for some reason I just like how paint sticks to them better as well. I much prefer metals over plastic. And indeed, they are easier to clean, but I suspect you need little cleaning. You say you are new, but I've already seen some paintwork on your scenery, and it betrays skills.

[Ravendas]

I find metal miniatures to be easier to paint and more fun to paint. They have more fun little details than the plastic models, which make the more interesting, and for some reason I just like how paint sticks to them better as well. I much prefer metals over plastic. And indeed, they are easier to clean, but I suspect you need little cleaning. You say you are new, but I've already seen some paintwork on your scenery, and it betrays skills.

When they're both primed, paint should both stick the same though, right? I haven't painted either in a long time, I've been painting my Bones which doesn't require priming.

[jon_1066]

I always use liquid polystyrene cement.  It is a liquid solvent and naturally wicks into the crack between the parts you want to glue together.  It therefore allows you to offer up the parts together then run the glue into the joint without having to move the parts.

I wouldn't worry about practicing on metal figures.  As long as you don't slather the paint on with a trowel you can always paint over stuff in the future.  Alternatively Detol is apparently good at removing paint from miniatures and won't effect the plastic.

[Koyote]

My thought was I could just sit the metal figurine in mineral spirits and be good to go in short order with no damage to the mini.  I don't know how I'd clean paint off the plastic as mineral spirits would eat it.

Simple Green will strip paint from metal or plastic minis and it will not harm plastics.  As an added benefit, it's nontoxic and biodegradable.

Drop the painted mini into a small jar or cup of Simple Green, wait 24 hours and give the model a good brushing under a water tap with an old toothbrush. Models with a lot if crevices and detail may require two treatments. Plastics tend to have less deep detail, so you probably won't need to dunk them twice. You can pick paint out if those stubborn recesses with a tooth pick or the tip of a hobby knife. Once you have removed the paint, give it a good rinse to get rid of any Simple Green residue.

Sometimes Simple Green will strip off the paint but leaves sections of primer.  This is fine. Once the model is dry, spot primer the model or just give the whole model a light coat of primer, focusing on the areas with no primer.

[Azzabat]

Personally I'd just dive in and paint whatever miniatures you intend to play with. You'll find your enthusiasm increases playing with painted models. And as mentioned you can always strip them again afterwards using Dettol disinfectant be they plastic or metal.

I use the Tamiya liquid cement for gluing plastics together. It actually melts the 2 plastic surfaces so they weld together, and then evapourates resulting in a much tighter and stronger bond. On metals go for 'Superglue'.

[Jennifer]

Thanks for the replies.  Good to know about the simple green.

Besides, Tamiya brand plastic glue, what glue do you guys use for your plastic miniatures?  And why do you like it over other brands?

I need to buy some plastic glue   I have e6000 at home, but never used it yet -- don't know if this counts or is as good as other brands.

I have no problem paying the money for something that excels.  e.g. I got these kolinsky 0 and 000 brushes , sable hair, made in ENgland.. like $15 a brush.. TOTALLY worth it.. I love em  Never had such control painting a mini before (although I haven't painted many yet).