What's the best method to base minis on washers?

[Hammers]

I find superglue to brittle if the surfaces are not *completely* flush to each other. Two part epoxy glue is much tougher and more forgiving.

[Orctrader]

Instead of washers I use 2p coins - 25mm diameter.

Like others, I sand/file the figure base flat then superglue.  If the base is thick I use Greenstuff around the edge and create a "gentle slope" before applying the baing material.

[phreedh]

Good tips. Epoxy glue it is! =)

The mainstay of my minis are either metal with slotta-tabs, or plastic pre-paints. I want them on uniform bases, hence the rebasing on washers. I also want the weight of the washers, especially for the plastics.

So far, I've been using green stuff and I've trimmed the slotta tab down. It's working out nice, but it's a bit too much mucking about really. Would be better if I could just clip the tab off, but then I'd have to submerge the feet of the mini in greenstuff.

Ho hum, I'll try a few different ways and see which I like best.

Hammers, your link still isn't showing in that first reply of yours.

[Sinewgrab]

Whereas I, unlike many, refuse to use washers. THey are too thin for me - I tend to pick up my models by the bases and not the figure itself, due to years of conversions and painting, and so I want something at least 3mm thick so that there is something to grip.

[Calimero]

... so I want something at least 3mm thick so that there is something to grip ...

  3mm !!! You’re an heretic!!!

[Svennn]

If you are using putty to model the terrain on the washer you want to switch to Milliput - a lot cheaper than Greenstuff. I use ready mixed wall filler as it saves all the fannying about mixing the epoxies and it takes diluted paint wonderfully when dry.

I use 25mm round and would use washers or wooden laser cuts if either were cheaper than the good old 2 pence piece - I always place the queens head down for some reason though

[phreedh]

I use 25mm round and would use washers or wooden laser cuts if either were cheaper than the good old 2 pence piece

We don't have any suitable coins in Sweden, the best fit would be 1 SEK, which is roughly 10p. A washer is cheaper and better. =)

[Sinewgrab]

3mm !!! You’re an heretic!!!

Blame it on 20 years of playing GW games. At this point, I actually cast many of my own bases from resin, so that they are textured how I want them.

[Captain Blood]

I use 25mm repair washers. I find 2 pence coins just give a bit too much of a thick edge for my tastes, although I agree it's pretty marginal.

I use Araldite 2-part epoxy glue, quick drying (sets rock hard in 20 minutes if you get the mixture right).

I don't bother roughing up the surface of the washers - I simply place them on a sheet of thin polythene bag material, fill the central hole up (and smear around it) with a generous helping of epoxy glue, then dob the figure down on top of it and twist it around a bit so the glue squidges out all round and forms a good seal around the figure's own base.

Once dry, you will find the hole has been filled with a solid lump of resin, the underside of which is perfectly flush with the underside of the washer (assuming you've been working on a flat tabletop), but this peels easily off the polythene.
And the figure is pretty much irrevocably stuck to the washer. Try getting it off - you'll need pliers.

Of course this only works for figures with integral bases - but then I don't buy figures with tabs and slotta bases 

I texture the base with my homemade jamjar paste mix of sand / grit / PVA and paint, which totally conceals what's going on beneath the figure's feet. Unlike milliput or green stuff, you just paint it on as thick and lumpy as you like - easy. And it has built-in texture, so you don't then need to add texture to the filler surface.

Anyway, that's the easiest, quickest and most effective way I've found of doing it, but I'm sure everybody swears by their own recipes 

[oxiana]

If you are using putty to model the terrain on the washer you want to switch to Milliput - a lot cheaper than Greenstuff. I use ready mixed wall filler as it saves all the fannying about mixing the epoxies and it takes diluted paint wonderfully when dry.

I use Humbrol model filler to fill in around the integral bases, once I've attached to a standard issue washer (superglue works for me). Very quick and easy - just squeeze it out of the tube and on it goes. It also gives a nice surface for a coat of PVA glue and a dip in a pot of sand for basing.

The only drawback is that the filler does have a solvent smell, so I put the figures in a plastic box while the base cures, otherwise it can stink out the house.

[Hammers]

I don't bother roughing up the surface of the washers - I simply place them on a sheet of thin polythene bag material, fill the central hole up (and smear around it) with a generous helping of epoxy glue, then dob the figure down on top of it and twist it around a bit so the glue squidges out all round and forms a good seal around the figure's own base.

As you can see the hole in the washer is actually an advantage. The epoxy forms a plug which makes for a stronger bond.

[Orctrader]

Interesting that the type of base has come up again.

As most of you will know - or if you don't just check out my website - I happily use all types of bases. 

[former user]

I texture the base with my homemade jamjar paste mix of sand / grit / PVA and paint, which totally conceals what's going on beneath the figure's feet.

would You mind to reveal the secret receipt of Your homemade paste please?
It happens that I thought of something similar, but somehow never managed to produce anything easy going, and Yours sounds like the actual thing 

[Orctrader]

I use home-made paste too.  Mine is polyfilla, silver sand and "grit" with plenty of water added. Never thought of adding paint to colour.  Another great tip from the captain.

[Captain Blood]

would You mind to reveal the secret receipt of Your homemade paste please?

Of course - it's no secret. I often promote the technique here, because I can't stand seeing people waste all their money on 'basing paints', which are just sand, paint and PVA mixed - with about a 1000% mark-up on the cost of the raw materials! Money for nothing. Cheeky swine.

I use a mix of coarse sand and emulsion paint (whatever colour base you want to achieve) with a good dash of PVA added. Mix together in a jar to provide a kind of grainy, thick toothpaste consistency. If you find it too thin, then mix in a bit more sand. You can adjust the grade of sand too, if you want a more gritty texture. If you find it too solid to paint on easily, then add a bit more PVA.
It takes about 2 minutes to make and keeps in a jam jar forever. Just use it when you need it.

Honestly, when you buy 'Base-tex' or other proprietary 'basing paints' this is all you're getting - a mix of paint and sand. So it's cheaper to make your own - like pennies of raw material to make enough mix to base 100 figures.

Once you've painted on the mix and it's still wet, stick a few pieces of aquarium gravel in it to look like sharp rocks here and there. Or a few fine 'gritty bits' - model railway type stuff. Games Workshop sell it too. If you're worried any of this won't stick, give it a coat of white glue / PVA to seal it.

That's it. Simples.