Newer GW inks separating

[OSHIROmodels]

Anyone else had this problem? Just the standard inks (not contrast or anything).

The older ones were fine but I'm finding the newer ones separating and needing a bloody good shake to get the solidified stuff at the bottom mixed in.

[has.been]

Price goes up, quality goes down.

[OSHIROmodels]

This wasn’t intended to derail into a GW hate thread, there’s plenty of that elsewhere. I’d just like to know if others have experienced the separating or if this is just potentially a bad batch.

[Pattus Magnus]

Maybe. I bought a pot of Nuln Oil a few months ago and found it very weak compared to the old one I was replacing. I just assumed there wasn’t as much pigment, but it might actually be the problem you experienced (pigment there, but not mixed in properly). I’ll have to take a second look.

A friend had the same thing with one he bought at around the same time.

[Mammoth miniatures]

Maybe. I bought a pot of Nuln Oil a few months ago and found it very weak compared to the old one I was replacing. I just assumed there wasn’t as much pigment, but it might actually be the problem you experienced (pigment there, but not mixed in properly). I’ll have to take a second look.

A friend had the same thing with one he bought at around the same time.

They changed them recently (they had some posts about it on the community page) and the consensus seems to be that they've ruined them by making them weaker and shinier.

[OSHIROmodels]

Thanks. Sounds like it’s a consistent problem them. Bugger 

[Elbows]

Yep, heard nothing but bad from the local guys who still use GW stuff.  Also seen the same on various YouTube channels.

[Codsticker]

I have never had a problem with GW paints separating until recently; a few months ago I bought a pot of Runefang Steel and it separates quite easily. It requires more than the usual shaking to get it mixed again.

[Major_Gilbear]

I have Daler-Rowney FW acrylic inks that do the same. I suspect it's to do with the exact composition/consistency of pigments and binder in them, and their ability to keep everything in suspension.

Like others, I've found newer GW paints all seem to separate quite easily in general (well, all the ones I have anyway), and this might be due in part to them being thinner consistency. Since acrylic ink is basically just very thinned paint, I wonder if this is why it's happening more?

A couple of things to note though; older GW inks (the white flip-lid ones, both round-pot and hex-pot types) sometimes had a habit of reactivating, and were often strong enough to "stain" the paint underneath (I think because they were actually a lacquer base?) - the newer inks are all acrylic formulations that no longer behave this way (and are better for it IMO). The other thing is that I use Daler-Rowney FW acrylic inks, and have found that the "best" ones for me are the semi-translucent ones; letting them settle and then pouring off the clear liquid means I can dump the sludge left at the bottom and I end up with more translucent inks (albeit, they are less strongly-tinted, but I can always just apply two coats!).

[Silent Invader]

I used to use the DR peat ink but stopped when I realised that it wasn’t  UV stable

[Radar]

Maybe. I bought a pot of Nuln Oil a few months ago and found it very weak compared to the old one I was replacing. I just assumed there wasn’t as much pigment, but it might actually be the problem you experienced (pigment there, but not mixed in properly). I’ll have to take a second look.

A friend had the same thing with one he bought at around the same time.

The washes were changed middle of last year (I think, might have been even earlier). They are now meant to work in tandem with contrast paints. So no longer meant to stain whole surface as well as pooling in nooks and crannies, they are just meant to pool. They also took the opportunity to reduce the size of the pots too.

[Silent Invader]

The washes were changed middle of last year (I think, might have been even earlier). They are now meant to work in tandem with contrast paints. So no longer meant to stain whole surface as well as pooling in nooks and crannies, they are just meant to pool. They also took the opportunity to reduce the size of the pots too.

Damn I mostly use them for staining

[OSHIROmodels]

Me too 

[Gibby]

What can a man who relied on the "magic in a pot" that the older incarnations of these washes provided get instead, I ask?

I too have noticed the drop in quality (or change in behaviour) of the GW washes, the worst one for me being them drying super glossy (and yes, I shook them, stirred them, didn't mix water in, didn't buy the gloss version, etc).

I sure miss Devlan Mud.

[Major_Gilbear]

If you miss the older GW washes, have a look at the Army Painter Washes (the acrylic ones in dropper bottles). Very similar in colour and finish!

The washes were changed middle of last year (I think, might have been even earlier). They are now meant to work in tandem with contrast paints. So no longer meant to stain whole surface as well as pooling in nooks and crannies, they are just meant to pool. They also took the opportunity to reduce the size of the pots too.

Yep, those washes are all now part of the Contrast range of paints, and were reformulated (and changed a bit) accordingly. Generally, your description seems about right to me!

I used to use the DR peat ink but stopped when I realised that it wasn’t  UV stable

Yeah - that's why I use the acrylic inks that are noted as being UV stable. It should be noted that translucency and light-fastness do vary by colour though (link).